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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
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With the key on and the points closed the neg side of the coil to ground should show 0 volts, when the points are open, neg side of coil to ground should show 12 volts.
If you do not show 12 volts with the key on and the points open, check to see if something on the neg side of the coil is shorted to ground. Look in the tech section and check the coil as described.
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#12
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So picked up a circuit tester and and a digital multimeter
With key on and the circuit tester on the + coil to grd, light is on With key on and start, the circuit tester on the + coil to grd, light is on With key on and the circuit tester on the - coil to grd, light is off With key on and start, the circuit tester on the - coil to grd, light is off using the multimeter set to 200 ohms, and key on, it reads -172 from + coil to grd using the multimeter set to 20k ohms, and key on, it reads 8.5 from plug wire hole to grd. Not sure if any of this makes sense. Does this confirm it might be the coil? thanks for any and all suggestions. |
#13
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All that matters, whether with the test light or the meter, is that you see 12V at the pos side of the coil with the key in the run and start position. That is good. Next, As I tried to explain earlier, what you should see on the negatives side of the coil depends on whether the points are open or closed at that particular time. So, with the key on, measure (or test light) the negative side of the coil and turn the engine by hand far enough that you can see the points open and close and tell us what you measure (or the light does) as they open and close and let us know. |
#14
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Key on, Points closed, from neg coil to grd, light out
Manually turn engine Key on, Points open, from neg coil to grd, light out Coil? Points? |
#15
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points, clean them, or if you haven't replaced them , replace them. when the points are closed the light should be on, open it should be off.
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#16
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So the points looked to be in pretty good shape. The contact surfaces didn't appear to be pitted but I still lightly sanded them. With the key on and points closed, neg coil to grd is still unlit. Does this point then to the coil?
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#17
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That is incorrect! When points are CLOSED, light is OFF. Anyways, next step: Remove both the wire to the points and the condenser wire from the negative pole of the coil. With the key on, what do you see on the negative pole of coil?? If you still have no light, the coil is bad, try another coil. If you now have a light, first try touching the condenser wire to the negative pole of the coil. If the light goes off, the condenser is shorted. If the light remains on it is probably good. Next, rotate the motor by hand to a point where you can see that the points are open. Now touch the wire from the points to the negative side of the coil. If the light goes off either your points are shorted or the wire from the negative side of the coil to the points has a bare spot and is touching ground. |
#18
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you're right. I wrote it backwards, just leave the point cover off, with points closed , flick the points open and closed with your finger. light should blink on and off.
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#19
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there was no light and the coil was bad,
Sourced locally was very expensive but the growing grass and weeds waits for no man. Just wanted to say thank you!!! for everyone's advice and direction |
#20
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Glad to help.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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