New 3240 owner with stuck transaxle issue

[Thumper807]

Thanks for all the tips and links, pretty good price there on RH casing. Question on buying replacement, what are the chances of it being a "direct" replacement? I noticed using the service manual to remove the transmission there were a few differences between the instructions and what I had to do on the 3240 and I know my tractor hasn't had any modification as I bought it brand new.

@t6430gr... no plans to use the Elmers, but I could be convinced to try some jbweld

Probably won't rip it apart till this weekend.

thanks again.

[t6430gr]

I just wanted to pop in and say thank you to everyone that contributed to my post. I appreciate it.

Yesterday I was able to get my first opportunity to mow my new property. The yard was about as tall as the front tires in 90% of the yard! The Cub struggled a bit as the grass was so tall that it tended to push a lot of it over as I mowed. I had lines of grass that I had to go back over. It seemed to do fine in the thinner areas. The deck was raised the whole time! I really needed a bush hog to start!

I have noticed a few negative comments about the diff lock on this site. I will tell you that my property a fairly steep slope in some areas, especially in the section near the home where the walk out basement is. I have to make some sharp turns up a pretty good incline. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised how nice it was using the diff lock. The first attempt I had a single rear wheel slipping. I simply stopped trying to accelerate, pushed in the diff lock pedal, and the Cub easily climbed the terrain even with that big 60" deck in such thick grass. I was a VERY happy camper!

[Sam Mac]

What ever you do, don't engage the diff lock with the wheels spinning or you will blow it up.

[Thumper807]

Well, I got my transmission apart, news isn't as good as t6430gr's.

Pictures below.... not sure how to proceed, don't see salvaging it at all and a new transmission (best price I have seen) is $1400. I don't know if I can bring myself to shell out that kind of money for a 14 year old tractor.

I was disappointed to find China bearings in my American made tractor too

Any advise on "what you would do" is appreciated.

[Sam Mac]

Wow! that thing is pretty much killed. Not sure how much you paid for it and I have to agree I'm not sure I'd want to put big $$$ into it. Did you price out the parts needed to fix it to running condition so that you could send it down the road? I'm sure you looked for a used tranny. Wish I had a good answer but I just don't. After seeing the inside of these things I know I'll never buy one. I'm sticking to the Cyclops or older stuff.

[FrankF3]

Thumper807, I am sorry to see the problems you are having with the rear-end of your tractor. You mentioned $ 1400 for a replacement, While I don't know where that is from, have you tried calling some of the sponsors or tractor salvage yards to see if one is available that is in better shape than yours?

[Oak]

Thumper, sorry to hear that yours is toast. China bearings?

LOOK AT THIS! This is the cast iron rear in my GT3100.
DSCN1679.jpg


The early 3K tractors were nice but I'm thinking that sales dropped off and they had to cut costs. They cut out the tilt wheel, back up/tail lights and put smaller tires on them as time went on.

[CubDieselFan]

Originally Posted by Oak

Thumper, sorry to hear that yours is toast. China bearings?

LOOK AT THIS! This is the cast iron rear in my GT3100.
Attachment 65085


The early 3K tractors were nice but I'm thinking that sales dropped off and they had to cut costs. They cut out the tilt wheel, back up/tail lights and put smaller tires on them as time went on.

It also makes me wonder how long the new XT series will last. I am thinking, not long.

[t6430gr]

That's a sad circumstance Thumper807. I guess where you go from here depends on how much you have invested, and the condition of the rest of the mower. My decision was easy as my mower is in excellent condition, has a strong motor, good deck, and should give me years of service. If you foresee other upcoming issues with worn parts, tires, leaky or smoking engine, perhaps this horse needs put out of its misery.

I'm afraid that you know enough to probably make the best decision. For less than $500 (if you can get that gapping hole fixed) you should be able to get new parts to fix this. You just need to consider if its worthwhile or not.

On my mower, I feel that it is in good enough shape that I will be replacing the 6 spider gears in the diff housing, the beveled ring gear, and the gear that engages the ring gear from the pump. I also plan on replacing the internal bearing (with an American version!) and also the shaft seals. When I discovered my damage, I felt it was ok enough to just get it going until my time permits to allow for parts shipping and NOT need to mow so much property. I'm thinking this upcoming winter perhaps.

So far, I have about 6 hours of mowing done with my mower since I got it back together. Everything is doing fine, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Looking at Thumper807's dilemma, I'm going to say I was very lucky with the minimal damage.

P.S. The Shell Rotella 15W40 (available at Walmart) oil I'm using in the transaxle saved me some cash and works just fine! I have about 1.5 gallons in the case and no issues with it.

[J-Mech]

Let this thread show why we suggest not buying tractors made after like 1995 or so.

Sorry for the bad luck guys. They just don't make them like they used to.