582 Vanguard repower

[Yosemite Sam]

So the three pin driver that you have, has the same bolt pattern in the center as everything else Cub Cadet, it just doesn't have a pilot bushing/bearing?

[Hack.45]

Exactly. It's open in the center to fit over the pilot bearing in the fan blade. It bolted to the original engine through the two further spaced holes, but has the other 4, more typical cub cadet holes.

[darkminion_17]

A 1535 uses the same driver you picture,maybe just bolt a adapting flange #1 with the bushing on it.

[Hack.45]

Hi guys,

I saw on eBay that Midwest Super Cub made an aluminum drive hub for Vanguard engines, just like the one made for Kohler engines. So, I removed the drive assembly from my Vanguard in order to see what the flywheel looks like. Here are the pictures:

Picture #1: The 2000/3000 series drive assembly.

Picture #2: a metal colar that clamps the plastic cooling fan to the flywheel.

Picture #3: The flywheel with the drive assembly and colar removed.

It seems that the flywheel has 4 evenly spaced threaded holes that a hub assembly could bolt to, but two of the holes are used to retain the cooling fan, and the cooling fan is carved out around the other two holes, where the drive assembly mounts. Any ideas how I could bolt a drive hub to the flywheel, keeping it balanced, and still retaining the cooling fan? I thought about boring out the two holes in the fan blade and using 4 shims between the hub and flywheel to keep enough pressure on the fan so that it stays in place. Just a thought... Any other ideas?

[Sam Mac]

I have a couple questions, why do you have spacers under the adapter? I don't see the locating dowel that is supposed to go in the center of the crank shaft and the adapter see attached pic of how it should be.

[Hack.45]

I didn't set it up this way. I picked up the engine used 3 weeks ago, and this is how it was configured. I just took a picture as I disassembled it.

[Sam Mac]

Well it looks like it came out of an LT2180 and they do have those spacers. But you should still have the dowel in the center. If it was me I'd see if the adapter will fit tight to the flywheel with out the spacers. Your going to end up with a lot of stuff hanging off those 2 bolts that hold the adapter to the flywheel. I'd hate to see it come flying out at speed.

[Hack.45]

Gotcha. That's why I was wondering if I could replace it with this:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=321630890913

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Hack.45

Gotcha. That's why I was wondering if I could replace it with this:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=321630890913

Looks like it would work. You will still need to figure out what your going to do for the 3 pin driver because you need a pilot bushing in the center. Other issue is the distance from the back of the flywheel to the clutch location. I suppose you could move the pivot point for the clutch forward but that will entail new brackets and linkage. Do you have any pics and measurements with the engine located where it needs to be in order for the PTO to line up?

[Hack.45]

Yup. From the front pressure plate to the original adapter, less the 2000 series coupler, it's 3.5". I attached a picture as it sits right now. Since Sam is out of stock on drive adapters, I've been watching a few on eBay. All have the pilot bushing and I'm currently watching one that ends tonight.

I too thought about moving the hanger bracket and throw-out bearing assembly forward, and buying a longer drive shaft. I also found this video that shows a longer gap between the throw-out bearing and pressure plate:

http://youtu.be/bVO2lfjSNPU

I know this a modified 6 pin pulling clutch assembly with heavier springs and such, but I'm wondering if this could be accomplished without the pulling upgrades using a longer spacer behind the rear pressure plate and possibly a heavier spring. Just brain storming... What do you think?