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#41
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Here's some before cleaning pics with a little better look at the gap around part of the piston.
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#42
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In my non professional opinion it looks like rebuild time. You didn't really need all that green paper with pics of dead presidents and important people in your wallet taking up space now did you?
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__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#43
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Did some cleaning, the top piston ring is visible in the bad spot.
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#44
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FWIW, the K321 on my 1450 has similar wear on the cylinder in the exact same spot. Not quite as much, but similar. Cleaned it up, new head gasket, runs like a champ.
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#45
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Good news is the piston is stamped STD so it probably has not been worked on before.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#46
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Well...... I've stared at the pics all day. I just can't see anything in them that scares me. Most of what I'm seeing is/was cause by the blown head gasket, poor fuel (maybe air) quality. But I don't see anything that makes me think it was sucking dirty air, just nasty fuel.
Here's what I recommend: ~Pull the valves, clean them up good. That gunk on the bottom of the intake isn't helping it flow good. Plus, that way you can really look at the seats and seating surface of the valve. Set the valve lash, and new vent cover gaskets. ~Plane the head and get a new gasket. ~Rebuild/clean the carb. (New air filter, unless it is.) Make sure you have either a sediment bowl, or an inline fuel filter to keep dirt from the carb. ~New ignition system. (Points, plug, condenser, plug wire) ~TIME IT, don't just gap the points. Use this method: Static Timing Fire it up and tune the carb like it should be, not just set it at the initial setting and leave it. I like my Kohlers just a tad on the rich side. Keeps them cool. I think that engine has life in it still. When you get it running again, see how much oil consumption it has, if any. If you aren't convinced you can reinstall the head, pull the cam cover and remove the ACR springs and do a compression check..... but since you have to install the head to do that I personally won't worry about it. You'll know in a few hours of run time if it's going to burn oil. That's my only concern is that it ran long enough in that condition to lose ring seal. But the piston looks pretty tight in the bore, and I don't see any scuff in any of the pics. I really think that motor is fine. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket, rebuild it. Personally, I'd run it. ![]() |
#47
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I have the carb kit and head gasket ordered. I'm going to put it together and see how it runs. I'm hoping to get 1 summer of mowing out of it while I do some work on my 1811. I will let you all know how it goes late next week when I get it back together. I want to thank everyone for all the help. I am kind of new to cub cadets and joined this site a couple days ago. I look forward to working with all of you on future projects.
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#48
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Finally got it back together after rebuilding carb, adjusting points and cleaning up valves and it fired up perfectly. Thanks for the help everyone!
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#49
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Glad to hear it.
__________________
Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#50
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Did you adjust the valves?
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