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  #11  
Old 03-31-2015, 06:08 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Once you get in there, would be a good time to clean everything up real good and take a look around for any other worn parts or possible problems/leaks.

I'd probably spend a hours cleaning things up and maybe even touching up paint to make it look as good as possible, but then that's just me!!
Good luck w/the seal!
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  #12  
Old 03-31-2015, 06:19 AM
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Golfnuts Golfnuts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Once you get in there, would be a good time to clean everything up real good and take a look around for any other worn parts or possible problems/leaks.

I'd probably spend a hours cleaning things up and maybe even touching up paint to make it look as good as possible, but then that's just me!!
Good luck w/the seal!
Thanks for the hint to clean and look over everything. This has been a great tractor so I will for sure look for any thing else that needs attention. I have done the trunnion repair on a couple of my other 782's so used to pulling rear ends as well as replacing gasket between transmission and the rear end housing.
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Cub Cadet's I have are (1) IH 782 for pulling Trailer, (1) CCC 1711 GT with 44" Mower (1) CCC 2284 SGT with 60" Mower and (1) CCC 1864 SGT with 50" Mower. Farm tractors I have are 1956 Ford 641 and 2005 John Deere 5320 with Loader.
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  #13  
Old 03-31-2015, 06:27 AM
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Golfnuts Golfnuts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Maybe I should add, roll the whole rear end out with hydro attached.
Don't know if you understood that, or at least I do it that way and it is a simple
job, it really isn't that bad.
I'm with the 30 min, ---hour @ most guys if you haven't done it before.
I just pulled one on a 1650 today, wished it was as simple as yours, I have the hydro apart, as it is the seal on the trunion lever side.
We will help if you have questions.
Hello ol'George,
Thanks for the information to just pull the rear end. I though about that after I sent last message to Jon and Tim. I would be much easier to just disconnect everything and roll the whole rear end with the transmission still attached to do the seal replacement. Also give me a chance to remove 35 years of dirt and grime.
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Cub Cadet's I have are (1) IH 782 for pulling Trailer, (1) CCC 1711 GT with 44" Mower (1) CCC 2284 SGT with 60" Mower and (1) CCC 1864 SGT with 50" Mower. Farm tractors I have are 1956 Ford 641 and 2005 John Deere 5320 with Loader.
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  #14  
Old 03-31-2015, 09:28 AM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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Pay attention to where the dirt is caked on. This is one of those while-you're-at it moments. Might consider doing the shaft seals on the hydro, as well as the cork seal and have a good look at the axle seals.
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2015, 11:22 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaturnV View Post
Pay attention to where the dirt is caked on. This is one of those while-you're-at it moments. Might consider doing the shaft seals on the hydro, as well as the cork seal and have a good look at the axle seals.
I'm big on "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Done many "while I was there" repairs and ended up with problems. If a seal isn't leaking, and it's not a 6 hour job to get to it..... leave it alone. Same with gaskets. Don't know how many times I've replaced a seal that wasn't leaking (because I was "there") just to have it leak after changing. Pull the rear, fix the trunion seal and put it back together unless you find another leak.
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  #16  
Old 03-31-2015, 11:31 AM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I'm big on "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Done many "while I was there" repairs and ended up with problems. If a seal isn't leaking, and it's not a 6 hour job to get to it..... leave it alone. Same with gaskets. Don't know how many times I've replaced a seal that wasn't leaking (because I was "there") just to have it leak after changing. Pull the rear, fix the trunion seal and put it back together unless you find another leak.
I have a hard time believing that the worlds best mechanic gets leaks.
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  #17  
Old 04-01-2015, 08:56 AM
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Unless I was taking the hydro apart for another reason, I'd probably leave the shaft seals alone, too. (If it ain't broke...). There is very little movement of the trunnion shafts, so I don't imagine they wear the seals much. I've yet to see a leaking trunnion shaft seal, but, then again, I've only worked on 6 or 7 hydro tractors. So my sample may not be statistically significant...
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  #18  
Old 04-01-2015, 09:29 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
I have a hard time believing that the worlds best mechanic gets leaks.
LOL Tim!! It happens.
I make mistakes too.... I just don't usually share them. Mistakes build experience. Without them, I wouldn't have found out what works and what doesn't!


Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
There is very little movement of the trunnion shafts, so I don't imagine they wear the seals much. I've yet to see a leaking trunnion shaft seal, but, then again, I've only worked on 6 or 7 hydro tractors. So my sample may not be statistically significant...
You know, I agree about the shaft movement. I don't know if the needle bearing wears a little or if it's the fact that they don't move much.... but my 1811 for example, I've replaced the trunion seal on the RH side 3 times since I've owned it (if memory serves). Then, there was my 125 (that I gave to my brother over Christmas). The hydro on it had never been out, so original seals in it. Also, I have yet to have a LH trunion seal leak. Guys talk about leaking trunion seals on here pretty often, and they too have a RH one leaking. It's always the right side. Someday, I'm going so sit on a bucked and think about it and figure out why that is.....
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  #19  
Old 04-01-2015, 11:14 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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I had a Right side trunion seal leak on my Ih 782, couple of years back and currently the left (read, take hydro apart) currently
on my '74 1650,--- just waiting for seals/gsket from John Deere
Sorry did I leave the cat out of the Bag?
I shouldn't have said that, er well my apologies BUT the Parts bags are Yellow
and the parts are identical and they are less expensive-- so it goes

J.Mech:
Thinking, the Left has 2 spring pins in the trunion holding the shaft, it will not allow the shaft to cock ever so slightly in the trunion like the R side.
I have seen evidence of working(Galling) of R shaft in the trunion bore. and on the shaft, but dam the seal should be able to allow that and do it's job.
but the seals are not large comparing OD to ID.-- maybe, only thing I can come up with.
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  #20  
Old 04-01-2015, 11:22 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You can get the seals at NAPA. They're like $7.50. SKF 6763
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