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  #11  
Old 02-02-2015, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
The typical failures are:

Mechanical Type: Plunger that moves up & down rusts up. Some oil leakage.

Automatic Type: Leaking fluid out the top vent hole.

NEVER heard of a valve failure due to heavy use nor the internals breaking.
The button gets depressed down and sticks. No movement
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:54 AM
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Deterioration of the O-rings are the biggest culprits of valve failure.
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2015, 09:01 AM
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I have been wondering if one could clean relief valves with an ultrasonic cleaner. Do it while they still work.
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  #14  
Old 02-02-2015, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
The typical failures are:

Mechanical Type: Plunger that moves up & down rusts up. Some oil leakage.

Automatic Type: Leaking fluid out the top vent hole.

NEVER heard of a valve failure due to heavy use nor the internals breaking.
Snapshot_20141005_11.jpg

This is what started my cubs issues.. the in-erds feel out due to a little crack..
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  #15  
Old 02-02-2015, 10:38 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSchool81 View Post
Are they more likely to go out under more demand from the pump/heavy use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
NEVER heard of a valve failure due to heavy use nor the internals breaking.



Quote:
Originally Posted by a3v03v0 View Post
I have been wondering if one could clean relief valves with an ultrasonic cleaner. Do it while they still work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaturnV View Post
Deterioration of the O-rings are the biggest culprits of valve failure.
Yep! Cleaning doesn't really cause issues... failed O-Rings do. It would be far more advantageous to oil and depress the manual valves regularly to keep them from freezing up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSchool81 View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I was wondering what makes these valves tic. Are they more likely to go out under more demand from the pump/heavy use?
For instance i am trying to figure if it went out because i am plowing snow with the tractor now. This seems to put a lot more strain on the machine naturally. Opposed to cutting grass slowly on mostly flat terrain. Or is it a don't worry I will break eventually and you will replace me part?
The common failures are listed here. Just like was already stated, most of the time they fail due to the button sticking on top (manual valve) or o-ring failure (automatic valve). I have seen one member who had one blow the guts out the bottom and down into the case.... that was cool. A new one on me too. See the valve is a shuttle style valve. They "work" all the time. They aren't a relief valve like some people think they are, they are a shuttle valve that keeps the hydrostatic circuit charged with oil. The charge pump pushes oil into the low pressure (return circuit) of the hydro via the check valves. You can read up on hydro's here. In the pic below you can see the check valves and how they do their job.

Hydrostat fluid flow.jpg
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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