Get the water out of your axle tubes

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Sam, do you have any measurements spec'd up that would allow the spot to drill the drain holes from inside the diff case and not require removing the rear end or removing the axle tubes? I have a right angle drill that should fit, plus, since there should be oil on the axle tube side, the flow of oil back into the center diff case once the holes are drilled should carry any chips back into the case from the axle tubes. Thoughts?

Frank

You need to pull the axle tubes. One of the holes is behind the ring gear. Arrows point to the drains. The cross section shows the level that is retained in the axle tubes as they are built. If you drill the drain holes in the case it allows the oil and water to drain back into the center housing so when you drain the oil out of the rear end everything comes out. From my experience the tubes hold about a quart in each tube on the aluminum rears. Problem is that you need to remove the axle tubes to be able to drill the center case. If you wish to just get as much out of the tubes as possible you can remove the axles and use suction gun. You would put a suction hose in through the out bearing and try to get it to the bottom of the axle tube then suck as much of the crud out as you can get. Hope this answers your questions.

[garnold]

This helped a lot Sam, thank you. I do have a follow up question. After doing this, do you add more then the standard amount of oil into the tubes since some will leak into the case? I'm guessing the lube from both tubes will find their level and stop leaking so maybe a little extra will cover the leak from each side? Good stuff and very helpful!!

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by garnold

This helped a lot Sam, thank you. I do have a follow up question. After doing this, do you add more then the standard amount of oil into the tubes since some will leak into the case? I'm guessing the lube from both tubes will find their level and stop leaking so maybe a little extra will cover the leak from each side? Good stuff and very helpful!!

When you refill it will require approximately 2 more qts. to bring the oil up to the fill level on the dip stick. The tubes will fill through the bearings. The 2182 took 2 gals to refill.

The first pic is what came out of the tubes on a 1572 that I used a suction gun on, the second is what came out of the tubes on the 2182 I'm working on at the moment. Sorry I don't have pics of the crud that was inside the tubes that had to be cleaned out with a scraper.

[Sam Mac]

Now with all this said let me add that I would not pull a rear that was not in need of a total reseal or a rebuild just to drill 2 holes. I'd pop the axles out and use a suction gun.
This is what I use for a suction tool.
http://www.handsontools.com/Mityvac-...-_p_57742.html

[darkminion_17]

This water problem must be a only for the aluminum rears,the cast ones I have taken apart,about 20,none had water,just crud.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

This water problem must be a only for the aluminum rears,the cast ones I have taken apart,about 20,none had water,just crud.

My 71 had some water and crud in it but not as bad as the Aluminum rears.

[FrankF3]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Frank

You need to pull the axle tubes. One of the holes is behind the ring gear. Arrows point to the drains. The cross section shows the level that is retained in the axle tubes as they are built. If you drill the drain holes in the case it allows the oil and water to drain back into the center housing so when you drain the oil out of the rear end everything comes out. From my experience the tubes hold about a quart in each tube on the aluminum rears. Problem is that you need to remove the axle tubes to be able to drill the center case. If you wish to just get as much out of the tubes as possible you can remove the axles and use suction gun. You would put a suction hose in through the out bearing and try to get it to the bottom of the axle tube then suck as much of the crud out as you can get. Hope this answers your questions.

Sam, is that 4 holes you have drilled on each side?

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Sam, is that 4 holes you have drilled on each side?

Frank

On some you only need to drill one hole on each side and some you need to drill two. First pic is the case that needs 2 holes the other is the case that only needs 1. No idea why Cub had a couple different case styles.
First pic is with the case sitting on end, the holes are at the bottom.

[J-Mech]

Just want to note, that doing this doesn't actually make it take more oil. The first time the cases were filled, the oil ran through the bearing into the axles. Then, because of there being no drain holes, you couldn't drain it out. The manual states that it takes about 14Pts to fill the unit. That is because they knew the oil couldn't come out of the axle. Oil level and quantity is the same, you just get more out, and subsequently takes more to fill.

Same thing when you rebuild a motor or an automatic trans. When the block or the trans is completely drained, it takes way more to fill. On a motor it's not uncommon to have to put 6 or even 7qts of oil in a new engine that normally takes 5. On a trans, same thing.