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  #11  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:33 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Ok, you have to run the jumper that Y-Sam was talking about WITH IT RUNNING. You can't work on a charging system with the engine off. Only works when it's running, so no testing when off. Unless your ohm'ing wires. You can do that with the engine off.

If the points in the VR look that bad, just replace it.

NOTE: The new one will look different. They had a design change. When you get the new one make sure you know how to wire it up. You going to have to make one of the wires a little longer IIRC. Been a year or so since I changed one on that series so my brain is a little rusty......
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:47 PM
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ToddW ToddW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Ok, you have to run the jumper that Y-Sam was talking about WITH IT RUNNING. You can't work on a charging system with the engine off. Only works when it's running, so no testing when off. Unless your ohm'ing wires. You can do that with the engine off.

If the points in the VR look that bad, just replace it.

NOTE: The new one will look different. They had a design change. When you get the new one make sure you know how to wire it up. You going to have to make one of the wires a little longer IIRC. Been a year or so since I changed one on that series so my brain is a little rusty......
i just jumper wired the vr battery terminal with the positive battery post with tractor running and not a thing happened. what does that indicate?
thanks
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:50 PM
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i just jumper wired the vr battery terminal with the positive battery post with tractor running and not a thing happened. what does that indicate?
thanks
That the wiring is good and the charging system still is not working.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:53 PM
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At this point it has to be the VR. THANKS FOR THE HELP!
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1960 Cub LoBoy- yellow roundnose. Fast hitch w creeper and roto tiller, front blade, mower deck and Fast hitch one bottom plow and rock rake
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2014, 01:00 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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also Yosimite Sam "Next step, run a jumper wire from the "Bat" terminal on the V/R to the Pos. battery terminal.
Do not assume that the "Bat" terminal in the wiring diagram is in the same location on the actual V/R. Take it off the machine and check it to see."
i did this and nothing happened with the key on and off, what was supposed to happen when I jumped the VR bat terminal and positive post??

I also removed to VR and it is clean inside, except the points look real worn down. so much so it appears the bottoms of the rivets holding down the points are exposed on each point. a clean sharp knife will not flake off the little "stalagmite" on each point

what next?

thanks
I should have been more clear (my mistake). While doing this with the engine running check the voltage at the battery. This bypasses everything in the battery wiring circuit that could be causing the problem.

It sounds like you are on to something with the corroded points in the regulator. I've never seen them worn away as badly as you describe, but I guess it's possible.

When cleaning points of any kind I always use a point file rather than any kind of abrasive paper or cloth. I feel there is too great of a chance for mineral from the paper/cloth or other contaminates to get between the points, preventing contact.

If you clean the contacts you should at least be able to make your situation better. Adjusting the regulator can be quite tedious and I don't recommend trying it if you aren't a very, very patient person. Only making the situation worse, is there are several different styles of V/R depending on vintage and manufacturer. This makes explaining the adjustment process extremely difficult.
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  #16  
Old 11-19-2014, 01:06 PM
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When I polarize the Genny, the tractor starts up for a few seconds showing charge, then it drops to drain, turn on the lights and really drains.
I can try filing off the exposed rivet on the point contacts-nothing to loose.
Also on the back of the vr, the fine wire wound around the cable to the "F" post is unwound and broke. that also might be causing problems.

1118981 is this the replacement for Delco 12 volt 4 post 108 cadet VR?
thanks
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2014, 08:01 PM
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Time to replace it. It seems roached for more than one reason. As stated above, be sure to wire new one correctly as wiring it incorrectly will sometimes let out the magic smoke that makes it work
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2014, 08:17 PM
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NAPA sell them for a good price.
Part #7-016008
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
Time to replace it. It seems roached for more than one reason. As stated above, be sure to wire new one correctly as wiring it incorrectly will sometimes let out the magic smoke that makes it work
new VR arrived today. has 4 terminals just like mine and says "12 volts positive or negative ground"

terminals are not all labeled the same as my other and I am worried about hooking it up
The "bat" and "f" terminal are the same as my old VR-Bat used to be in middle of 3 terminals. the "f" terminal also has the fine wire winding on the back of the new VR to a terminal under the VR on the opposite back side from the 3 terminal posts (looks to be ground maybe like my old VR)

there is also an "l" terminal next to the battery terminal but no "gen" terminal -by deduction is guess "L" is replacing "gen" but i don't want to guess wrong and release magic smoke
help!
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Cub Cadet 1650, IH 44 mower deck, IH snowthrower
1960 Cub LoBoy- yellow roundnose. Fast hitch w creeper and roto tiller, front blade, mower deck and Fast hitch one bottom plow and rock rake
1951 F Cub with Wagner loader and woods brush hog, 152 disk plow and 23A harrow
1953 Ford Jubilee tractor and F100 Pickup
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2014, 02:49 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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"L" is for load. No it DOES NOT replace the "G" terminal. On most of the new ones the "G" terminal is the one on the rear. Post a pic of it. If you hook up the gen to the "L" terminal you will get a surprise. It will start cranking as soon as you hook up the battery.
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