QL 1450 & 1650: Treads loctited on?

cledford · #1 05-04-2010, 10:53 AM

I wanted to pull the fenders off my 1650 last night. I'd just purchased it last week. Every single tread bolt was frozen - not a budge. I thought that maybe a PO had locktited them on. Then, just to see, I tried the bolts on the 1450 and the same - not even a budge. Did the factory loctite them, or is it just rust? They are a tab bit rusty - but nothing I'd think that would seize every one up solid...

Thanks for suggestions...

-Calvin

Yosemite Sam · #2 05-04-2010, 11:22 AM

I doubt that IH would use locktight on them, sometimes they are a bear to get out, PB Blaster and a lot of patience will usually get the job done.

RChristensen · #3 05-04-2010, 11:43 AM

Cledford

You need an impact screwdriver to remove those screws, along with plenty of PB Blaster or some other lubricant and let them soak overnight. You can get the screwdriver at Harbor Freight for about $7.00. Probably at any tool store.

truckntran · #4 05-04-2010, 02:06 PM

Heating the bolts to red hot, then cooling before removal will sometimes work. Definitely a part that gets never seezed on reassembly.

wshytle · #5 05-04-2010, 08:42 PM

Cledford-

Those bolts are usually either slotted or a #3 phillips. I take a dental pick and clean out the dirt/mud that has been packed in there especially the two towards the rear on each side. When the tool fits as well as possible it always helps and I never even try with a plain screwdriver; I grab the impact driver from the git-go. I've never had to in this case but you can also weld a nut to the little bolt. When the top of the bolt gets stripped and a tool can't grip it this method makes it pretty simple. I've done it on other bolts. Grind the bolt for a clean surface, place a nut over it, and weld the inside of the nut well. It sounds a little tricky but is rather simple and usually works well. Just make sure to be careful with the heat factor.

Again, good luck with this as well as the ISO mounts.

tubbyfirefighter · #6 05-04-2010, 09:59 PM

Cledford, I just removed the ones on my 1450 and had to use the impact driver and pb blaster. Soak them down and whack the bejesus out of them and they will come out no problem.

FFGino · #7 05-06-2010, 11:13 AM

Hi, I find that if you support the underside of the braces that the bolts that you are tyring to remove with are attached to, say a jackstand or something that will really support the brace, you will have batter luck removing the bolts. This also works with the removal of roll pins. You need something SOLID to beat against! Just my

;:biggrin2.gif:

FFGino. Happy Cubbing!

cub149 · #8 05-06-2010, 05:21 PM

If you don't have an impact wrench you can take an old phillips screwdriver and grind two flat spots on the shaft and use an adjustable wrench on the flat spots. Just put a lot of pressure with one hand and turn with the wrench. It has worked for me everytime. You still need to use the PB blaster.

JeffD · #9 05-07-2010, 09:41 AM

Put some heat to them and they will come right out... I just used a small propane torch, and had no problems getting mine out. IF they were loctited in, then heat is your best friend anyway.

Jeff

Rhoderman · #10 05-08-2010, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wshytle

I've never had to in this case but you can also weld a nut to the little bolt. When the top of the bolt gets stripped and a tool can't grip it this method makes it pretty simple. I've done it on other bolts. Grind the bolt for a clean surface, place a nut over it, and weld the inside of the nut well. It sounds a little tricky but is rather simple and usually works well. Just make sure to be careful with the heat factor.

That's how I got a couple of the tough ones out of my 126 steps. Worked like a champ!