1100 will not run

[1100user]

Hi all, new user here I have had an 1100 for 5-6 years it is at my camp over two hours away so I don't get to it that often. It ran well the first year I had it and now will not start and has not run for years. I am sure the old gas was not good for it but have removed carb and cleaned it well, have books and set carb to the proper settings but the engine just turns over any suggestions before I throw an 200.00 carb on it? Thanks

[J-Mech]

If you cleaned the carb and it won't run, chances are a new carb won't fix it either. $200 waste of time. Did you see if it has spark?

[1100user]

Thanks for the reply, yea it has spark, last year I got it to run for a moment and stall out. It did this only on full choke ??

[J-Mech]

Did you drain and clean the tank, install new fuel lines, and a filter?

[1100user]

No, not this year but last year I did and it did not help, no fuel filter that I can see, spent hours on this last summer and I have rebuilt my john deer loader so I'm fairly mechanical which is what leaves me shaking my head. I'm heading there for a week and will try everything I can.

[J-Mech]

If it sits outside, better take a compression gauge with you. Then do all that I said about cleaning and replacing. Pull the carb and clean it again too. If you put dirty nasty gas into a clean carb it just plugged it up again. Good luck!

[Yosemite Sam]

Cleaning a carburetor has different meanings to different people. That said, your carb should be removed from the engine disassembled and soaked in a can of carburetor cleaner overnight. Then all the passages should be blown out with compressed air, the parts should be inspected and then reassembled.

Your particular carb should have a square "cover" on one side with (probably) a couple of rubber-like "gaskets" these gaskets will (most likely) have a couple of "flaps" and various holes, one should have a "round spot" with a spring and rounded washer-looking thing on it behind the rubber... These "gaskets" can become perforated causing fuel to flow where it doesn't belong and not, where it does belong.

The "round spot" and spring ARE the fuel pump, if there is even the tiniest hole in this "rubber" your engine WILL NOT RUN. These "gaskets" should be replaced.

So now that you are into this carb this far, you might as well replace all the gaskets and any other parts that may wear. If you nose around on the net you may be able find a manual for your carb and instructions on how o rebuild it.

As a test, spray a little starting fluid in the cab while cranking the engine, if it runs on the starting fluid but not on gas from it's gas tank, then the carb probably needs to be rebuilt.

[zippy1]

Did you check to see if you have fuel flow to the carb?

[1100user]

Back from vacation spent several hours on my cadet 1100, thing is a pain now the key switch did not work had to ground batt and ran lead from positive side right to the starter? But back to carb, took it off (7th time) cleaned again now it coughs gas out of carb and then it just ran out onto ground, thought it was float, off with it again reset float now no gas comes out but will not start? good spark but plug was dry, loosened bottom bolt and gas ran out so bowl was full. Think i'll pull the engine and take to to a shop

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by 1100user

Back from vacation spent several hours on my cadet 1100, thing is a pain now the key switch did not work had to ground batt and ran lead from positive side right to the starter? But back to carb, took it off (7th time) cleaned again now it coughs gas out of carb and then it just ran out onto ground, thought it was float, off with it again reset float now no gas comes out but will not start? good spark but plug was dry, loosened bottom bolt and gas ran out so bowl was full. Think i'll pull the engine and take to to a shop

Take the whole tractor. That way, you can have them fix the electrical gremlins too. If not, you'll be back on here saying that the shop says they got it running, but now you can't get it to start.