1650 refresh

[yeeter]

My weekend activities:

Not a restoration, but just cleaning this one up.

Before and after shots (before was Winter, thats how long it takes me to 'get around to it'.

The primer was Martin Senour 'epoxy' (a one part) PCC 102 I believe. The color was MS Urethane. I reduced the color 4:1:.5 (Hardener). We will see how it holds up. My spray gun is crappy, but at the same time I dont think I will choose this paint system again. Give it a month to cure out and I might change my mind.

Was trying to figure out why I did this... Im not going to keep this tractor. But I guess it was just a practice refresh, so when I do my keeper I will have it down.

[bolivier]

Looks pretty good. Did you spray the frame, rear end, front end as well? I'm at the point with my 1650 where I need to decide if I'm going to completely tear it down, or just paint it with the rear and front still on it.

[yeeter]

I sprayed the outside rails on the frame, and across the front end axle, and parts of the rear end. Did all that while it was sitting on the blocks. Just covering up some scratches and surface rust where it had been banged up a bit. Internal mechanisms were all in pretty decent shape and painting those wouldnt have gained much.

The two items I think needed the help were the wheels, and the fenders. I could have lived with the hood for quite a long time (would just wax the patina), but the wheel rims and fenders were due for something else they would be continuing to deteriorate.

[Alvy]

Looks great yeeter. Turns out that napa paint mixed up well after all? And sprayed well? I think I'm going to use it too for my 800.

[yeeter]

Hi Alvy! Was going down to the other thread to give you and update on that but you beat me here.

I dont know... I wouldnt use the NAPA paint on my 'restoration'. Part of the issues were mine, so take it all with a grain of salt. I didnt find a two part epoxy primer, so settled on their one part (I believe epoxy is just a material technical term - like polyester or acrylic, etc.. it doesnt 'have' to be two part to be called epoxy).

But the primer goes on thick. This caused some problems for my cheapy spray gun. But I just made small swaths and took my time.

The primer doesnt seem to be fully cured yet (meaning, its not too hard). If the primer is thick, there is no point of a hard top coat if the primer coat just gives way to the scratches.

I didnt feel like the color coat flowed out great. Again part of this was my spray equipment, but if there is an area that has plenty of paint on it, it should flow out no matter how it was layed down. I thinned 4:1 (they gave a choice of 4:1 or 5:1, and I went with the 4(color):1(reducer);.5(hardener) wanting the less viscous choice.

Yellow doesnt cover well. Plan two coats min. I doubt this has anything to do with the paint.

I sprayed outside and got a couple pine needles (and a bug)

Before priming, I wire wheeled where needed, and sanded, and then etched with POR 15 Metal etch. I dont know if the POR 15 was a good idea or not. Ask me in 10 years.

Ultimately I think its going to give good corrosion protection. MUCH better job than rattle cans. Wife unit says it looks great! And since its a tractor, doesnt have to be show room quality. But still....

[bolivier]

Don't talk it down yeeter. Looks pretty good in the pics. A couple of decals and it'll be set for another 20 years.

[ACecil]

Your cub is looking nice!