Timing a Kohler K with a multimeter or ohm meter

transformer · #1 04-19-2010, 03:13 PM

If anyone has the time to explain to me how to use a ohm meter to time my cubs.I can do it with a timing light just a pain seems like it might be easier this way.Ive read a few posts on it but just dont understand it yet..Thanks Randy

labrati · #2 04-19-2010, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transformer

If anyone has the time to explain to me how to use a ohm meter to time my cubs.I can do it with a timing light just a pain seems like it might be easier this way.Ive read a few posts on it but just dont understand it yet..Thanks Randy

I second that... please... looks like frankin-127 is going to be less "a-b normal" soon, so I need to be able to adjust mine as well...

Matt G. · #3 04-19-2010, 03:29 PM

First, find the "S" mark on the flywheel, and use a Q-tip to rub some paint onto that spot on the flywheel through the sight hole in the flywheel shroud, if necessary to see it. Next, disconnect the battery and remove the points cover. Gap the points at 0.020" to get the timing in the ballpark. Connect one lead of the ohmmeter to ground, the other to the coil side of the points. Rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation. When the points are closed, the resistance will be zero, and when they're open, the resistance is infinity. When the points are just beginning to break (in transit from closed to open) the needle on your analog ohmmeter will fluctuate and then go to infinite resistance. I don't know what this looks like on a digital meter, I'd have to try it. I prefer an analog meter because of the response time. Anyway, when the points just begin to break as described above, look for the "S" mark in the sight hole on the flywheel shroud. If the timing is just right, when the points are just beginning to break, the "S" mark will be centered in the window. If it's not centered, adjust the point gap a bit and repeat until you get the "S" mark centered when the points begin to break. Trial and error is probably going to be necessary. After you're all done, make sure the adjustment screw is tight and that the gap does not change when you tighten the adjustment screw. If you don't hold the little tab on the points with a screwdriver tip while you tighten the screw, you'll probably lose your new point gap and it won't run right. Put the cover back on and reconnect the battery. The engine should now start easily and run smoothly.

transformer · #4 04-19-2010, 04:01 PM

THANKS Matt...Thats what I thought. Thanks again for spelling it out in crayon for me...I can manage that now......Randy...

transformer · #5 04-19-2010, 04:10 PM

Labrati I thought that might help you as well.....Ive been wanting to learn how to do it that way for a while...

labrati · #6 04-19-2010, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by transformer

Labrati I thought that might help you as well.....Ive been wanting to learn how to do it that way for a while...

now if I can just remember how to use my digital ohm / mulitimeter.. LOL... I did some searching and for sure I've got some sort of hybridized point-saver type system installed currently... looks a little home-grown... the transistor box has the hole where the wires come out filled with silicone.. Going to see if I can get the coil to spark tonight.. I cross referenced the current coil and it's a Standard UF-3 which crosses with the Bosch Blue 00012 which seems to exist in all of the pointless "kits"... bad news is looks like someone patched into the wiring harness as all of the wires up front going to the VR are all the wrong colors.. which makes sense if it's supposed to be in the back somewhere... seems I've seen pictures of 127's with the VR on the post where the headlight blank goes in... I really don't relish a re-wire of the harness.. might just make my own secondary heat shield and leave the VR up front.. I am for sure moving the coil... my hope is that I go home and hook everything back up and it starts.. and I can fight the battle with a new coil and condenser this weekend or something...

Rhoderman · #7 04-19-2010, 10:06 PM

You might want to disconnect the coil itself from the points to make it easier. The primary side of the coil will have some resistance, not infinity.
If your Digital meter has the "beep mode" for continuity, it becomes much easier.

If you're fast, you can do this with the battery and measure voltage. Just make sure to keep the time the points are closed to a minimum amount of time.

You can also use a 12V test light. Connect the test light to ground and the points wire. If the points are open, the light should light up, points closed, light off. The test light requires the battery to be connected, and again you take a chance of overheating your points if you aren't fast.

To kill a points or coil, you need to have power on, and the points need to be closed, for a long enough time to heat up the points or the coil. If the points are open, you won't hurt anything.