K241A misses at higher rpm's

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Put one lead from the ohmmeter on the coil side of the points, and ground the other side. Disconnect the coil from the points first. Rotate the engine slowly by hand in the direction of normal rotation. You want to points to just begin to break (resistance going to infinity) when the "S" mark is centered in the sight window on the flywheel shroud.

Matt I got it set per your instructions ran like a champ! Then after letting it sit and idle while I hooked up the plow it "lost" it's timing so I had to redo it again. I thought maybe @ 3am I didn't have it tighted down enough it came loose but every thing was tight. So I reset it and it happens again! So I reset it again then same thing happens Any idea's why it's losing it's timing? It will run but you can hear it missing. If I throttle up it doen't gain hardly any rpm's

New points, new spark plug wire and new condenser (all OEM from local CC dealer) Anything I'm forgeting? Could the coil be bad?

I work 2nd shift so 3am isn't new to me hehe

Thanks for your input!

[R Bedell]

Methos:

Spark plug gap:

.025" for Magneto Ignition Systems
.035" for Battery Ignition Systems

[Methos]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

Methos:

Spark plug gap:

.025" for Magneto Ignition Systems
.035" for Battery Ignition Systems

Thanks Roland! I went ahead and set the gap to .035

[Methos]

Went out this morning and timing as set right. Went out and pushed some dirt around in the garden and once it started getting warm it started misfiring again I've got it parked back into the garage and going to let it cool down and see how it acts when I fire it back up once cooled down.

Any idea's on why it would start misfiring once it got up to temp?

Thanks for the help!

[Matt G.]

It's unclear from your posts whether or not the timing is changing every time you run it. Is it still timed properly when you shut the engine off? If it is changing, then perhaps you don't have the adjustment screw on the points tight.

[Rhoderman]

Coil getting hot maybe??

Make sure there isn't any oil getting blown past the points actuator pin and fouling your points. If there is, check your valve cover breather.

Maybe it's not ignition related and you have a valve that's starting to stick? A bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and mixed in the fuel for one tank might help that.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

It's unclear from your posts whether or not the timing is changing every time you run it. Is it still timed properly when you shut the engine off? If it is changing, then perhaps you don't have the adjustment screw on the points tight.

It was timed right this morning but when I parked it last night it was misfiring. I thought the screw might been loose but it was tight every time I checked timing. I reset the timing 4 times in the yesterday. I have not reset the timing today and it's still misfiring. I checked the pivot point of the points to see if that was out of the hole but it wasn't.

Ran it today still misfires coil is kinda warm not close to being hot. Isn't a hot coil a sign of it going bad?

Thanks for the help!

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Rhoderman

Coil getting hot maybe??

Make sure there isn't any oil getting blown past the points actuator pin and fouling your points. If there is, check your valve cover breather.

Maybe it's not ignition related and you have a valve that's starting to stick? A bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and mixed in the fuel for one tank might help that.

The kinda warm but I didn't have to take my hand off of it due to heat.

Will check the valve cover breather just to make sure.

Will pick up some Marvel Mystery Oil tonight and try that.

Thanks for the help!

[eastonct124]

There is no reason timing will change if the screw is tight, and the pivot hole and screw are good.
A bad cam bearing will make the the cam walk, which will affect the the cam and timing at high rpm.....but I don't think it would actually change the timing.
I would remove the points assembly, clean the area and assy well, then reassemble and reset.
Did you actually use a light yet? I use an advance light on everything, because I total time my cars with points....you could put open the throttle, and see if the timing changes between high and low rpm.
I spend alot of time when I adjust a carb. You'd be surprised how much smoother a kohler will run if you just hold it WOT, and play with the highspeed mixture screw. I find that it onlt takes 1/4 turn to get rid of that "Miss" sound.
I'd put a light on it first, and make sure the timing is actually moving before moving on from there.

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by eastonct124

A bad cam bearing will make the the cam walk, which will affect the the cam and timing at high rpm.....but I don't think it would actually change the timing.

K-series engines do not have cam bearings. The cam is hollow and rides on the pin that retains it in the block. I have never heard of wear in this area of these engines, either.