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  #21  
Old 01-04-2014, 11:29 PM
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I was remembering the guy who built his cab 100% custom. He planned heat long before he scored the diesel engine. I don't know how well it works but here's the thread...

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20797
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2014, 12:48 PM
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I was going to say "what about all those heat houser cabs used for years" like J-Mech posted.
I always thought they were open back cabs tho.
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  #23  
Old 01-05-2014, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
I was going to say "what about all those heat houser cabs used for years" like J-Mech posted.
I always thought they were open back cabs tho.
The heat housers, or "weather breaks" didn't. But there were others that did.
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2014, 06:30 PM
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The heat hausers pull heat from the engine, but not from the exhaust. They do not envelope the exhaust or anything like that....and they don't pull a whole lot of heat from the engine. I still say err on the side of safety and disagree with pulling anything from the exhaust that involves CO. The CO attaches quickly to the hemoglobin in the bloodstream causing dizziness, confusion, vomiting, etc. Dress sensibly for the job you are doing, just like having the right tool for the right job--your attire is part of that.

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  #25  
Old 01-05-2014, 08:40 PM
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The heat housers utilize whatever warm air can be channeled to the cab from the rad, a now enclosed engine compartment back to the operator.

I don't think anyone suggested blowing exhaust fumes into the cab area on a CC.

The HH thing could be done on a CC the same way as on a fullsize tractor.
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2014, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
The heat housers utilize whatever warm air can be channeled to the cab from the rad, a now enclosed engine compartment back to the operator.

I don't think anyone suggested blowing exhaust fumes into the cab area on a CC.

The HH thing could be done on a CC the same way as on a fullsize tractor.
Except for the fact all the heat on a cub goes out the front. You'd have to wrap the whole front.
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  #27  
Old 01-06-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Except for the fact all the heat on a cub goes out the front. You'd have to wrap the whole front.
Plus you would want to wrap under the frame too. At least in front of the engine. Might actually get too complicated trying to harness the air coming off of an air cooled Kohler without overheating problems.
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  #28  
Old 01-06-2014, 07:09 PM
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How can wrapping copper tubing around the front muffler can bring CO in the cab? I'm not even sure if he can get enough heat out of this setup, but there is no way CO can't get inside the copper pipe.

This solution anyway involve to much fabrication and money to just guessing the result, since you deal with a air cooled engine a electric heater directly connect to a extra deep cycle battery is the best solution, a small 12v 300 Watt electric heater is more then enough to heat 15 cubic feet. On the lowest setting this heater need only 8.3 A/Hr

Here a good small one (220W) made in USA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-THERMAL-S...-/321284884657
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  #29  
Old 01-07-2014, 02:18 PM
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How about a little diesel fired heater that they been putting in semi trucks for years. You could probly pick a used one up for a couple hundo.
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  #30  
Old 01-07-2014, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sportsman850 View Post
I have a cozy cab on a cub 1250. I need heat in it. I wont do electric because they wont keep up, and using propane is not safe. My 2 ideas are wrapping the muffler with 5/8" copper tubing, cover the tubing with sheet metal, running the tubing to just outside the engine cover and running heater hoses to a atv radiator in the cab. From there the fan will blow the heat to the windshield. The other option is running a 3" duct from the front of the engine to a fan that will suck and blow the air into the cab. Any ideas?
You can capture some of the heat from the muffler for sure using copper tubing,if you can loop the copper tube fairly tight. The longer the distance air would have to travel through the copper pipe and get heated , the better. Now I don't think you would get hot air, but if it warms up even a little and you recirculate the air from the cab,it will heat up more and more in no time.If you pull in cold air from the outside and hope to heat it up,I don't think that's going to work.If both the air intake and outlet are in the cab,I don't see how you could get any carbon monoxide in there.But you could always buy a carbon monoxide detector for safety.

My brother ran copper tubing through the walls of his wood fireplace with a computer fan at one end. Heats up the house like you wouldn't believe.
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