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Reload this Page Throwing H42 blower shear pin??
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2013, 02:32 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzzy View Post
In your first post you said the pin was a shearpin. I'm not familiar with that model blower but, if it is in fact a shearpin you should be careful about what you use as a pin. Shearpins are soft so they break before something else does.
If it currently has a clevis pin in it, a bolt wouldn't be as hard. He can use a grade 2 if there's a problem.


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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
I have not researched it but I would guess that a cotter pin is softer than either a shearpin or bolt.
Therefore I would try the cotter pin, knowing it might get sheared sooner rather than later.
But that is okay.
The cotter pin doesn't go through the shaft, it is used to hold the pin in. You know, it goes in the end of the pin through a drilled hole....
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2013, 09:00 PM
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Redblower Redblower is offline
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Just to be clear, yes the cotter pin goes in the end of the shear pin. A pic would really have helped, see below. Both of these items are "stock oem" so this is a true "shear pin", the culprit seems to be the little key ring style retainer that keeps coming off, as mentioned the silliest part is that they cost more than the shear pin! so giving up on them no matter how cool they look compared to a cotter pin. I'm guessing problem solved.
Thanks Guys,
Vic
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File Type: jpg shear pin.jpg (29.2 KB, 40 views)
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2013, 09:53 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Originally Posted by Redblower View Post
Just to be clear, yes the cotter pin goes in the end of the shear pin. A pic would really have helped, see below. Both of these items are "stock oem" so this is a true "shear pin", the culprit seems to be the little key ring style retainer that keeps coming off, as mentioned the silliest part is that they cost more than the shear pin! so giving up on them no matter how cool they look compared to a cotter pin. I'm guessing problem solved.
Thanks Guys,
Vic
Maybe a higher quality ring is needed
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-split-rings/=q0xgqz

I would suggest either 18-8 stainless steel or the zinc plated steel rings.

Buy what you need and offer the rest for sale for $3 or $4 for 10 shipped. You get what you need and help out other CC enthusiasts
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2013, 09:34 AM
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DoubleO7 DoubleO7 is offline
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So the ring is either wearing, or rusting away.
How long does one last before it is lost?
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2013, 10:25 AM
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Redblower Redblower is offline
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Not rusting I would hope, only lasted 2 times out, less than an hour each. Hadn't considered wearing or breaking, assumed they were somehow working their way off? Those little devils were a pain to get installed, cotter pin much easier and sure its on there. Haven't blown again since cotter pin install will keep you posted. Just for the record the rings sold at dealer for $2.59/ea. they definitely weren't stainless, the pin was $2.19/ea.
Thanks,
Vic
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