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#1
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got a diesel 1782, been using it for leaf removal last month or so. the steering has gotten stiffer over the last few weeks. theres a little slack in the steering thats easy to move, but to actually move the wheels it feels like rubber trying to slide on metal. can't imagine what could be going on other that maybe the steering valve needs to be rebuilt? not much else to the steering. I just greased the frontend again and it made no difference, it really feels like its just in the steering valve itself. anyone else have that problem?
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1782, 1862, 1440(sold), 89 1050, 128, 70, some run some don't! 72 scout IH 404 tractor |
#2
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How well are the rest of the hydraulics working?
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#3
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everything else works great.
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1782, 1862, 1440(sold), 89 1050, 128, 70, some run some don't! 72 scout IH 404 tractor |
#4
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Thinking it could be the CV joint needs to be cleaned and greased, they get stiff when the grease gets old.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift. ![]() |
#5
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When was the last time you cleaned and greased the CV joint in the steering column? Pics are of one in a 2284 that I did a couple years ago, but you have the same deal. It's a PITA to get at. I will be doing the one in my new to me 1782. I'm going to remove the engine and radiator to get at it. Also going to replace the fan belt while I have it out. It is on the verge of breaking and I don't want to cook the Bota.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#6
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I see that Ben hit send before I did.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#7
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I added PS to my 1811 last year and became familiar with the system you are you are using and I believe that your problem has to be BEFORE the valve. In other words it is most likely the CV joint because once the valve gets an input it will move without any feed back to you and will turn the wheels no matter what's in the way of them or the other linkage involved. The CV joint is a pain to get to but I believe that is where your problem is.
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1811 Hydro "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail". ![]() |
#8
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Yeah I haven't done that cv yet. I did the driveshaft ones when I first got a afew months ago. guess I will yank the radiator this coming week maybe and redo that cv. probably add a grease joint to it somewhere as well if it doesnt have one, maybe somewhere in the upper shaft if its not hollow, and drill it to fill the cv. cheaper than rebuilding the valve setup at the moment. Just doesn't feel like that could be it to me, but at least with it apart that far I can see if anything else it goofy as well.
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1782, 1862, 1440(sold), 89 1050, 128, 70, some run some don't! 72 scout IH 404 tractor |
#9
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If you could get the CV joint loose from either end of the shaft and then turn the shaft that would tell you whether or not it is the CV joint. If it is still stiff and rubbery it would have to be in the valve. Having looked at the setup inside the valve I do not see how it could give you that kind of feedback. Basically all you are doing in the valve is opening and closing ports by turning plates. I guess if one or more of the "O" rings have come loose then it could feel rubbery as the plates turn. Good luck with it. I know that area is a b**ch to get to and work on. I got my frame up to waist height so that my back was not under constant attack while putting in the PS.
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1811 Hydro "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail". ![]() |
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