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#42
11-13-2013, 12:44 AM
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The tillers will shake and beat when you try to till sod with them. They aren't really made to break ground. Best thing you can do is either plow first, or just slow way, way down and let it work. The tine speed really isn't where it needs to be for ground breaking. But, I don't think speeding it up is a good idea for the style of gearbox it has. I have considered it, but I just went and bought a plow. Problem solved.
 P.S. they don't like roots and bricks much either, LOL! 
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#44
11-13-2013, 10:08 AM
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I still have yet to get a moldboard plough. That would help a lot.
__________________
     Grandpa's 1961 "O" w/ mowing deck, 169, 149, 147, 1000, 125 w/creeper and 3pt, 1250 w/ 44A deck, 1650, Frankenstien 1250, Great Grandpas 1968 Cadet 125 w/original QA-36, CCC 1711, Model 2 tiller, QA-42 and a QA-42A Snowthrower, Cozy cab May not be as much as others, but we're still building our fleet! There are more to come! Connor
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#45
11-13-2013, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
The plow and ripper idea sounds awesome! Do you have pix of your ripper? I am tempted 
__________________
1- 1864 Dual hyd, cat 0, axle braces 1- 1450 Dual Stick w/ power steering 1- 1200 in pieces 1- 1864 in pieces QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket
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#46
11-13-2013, 10:21 AM
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I guess I have the ripper, box drag, blade and dirt scooper all tied into one with my Earthcavater.. I have never seen one in action. Don't think many people around here ever heard of one. I will have to play with it someday to learn how to use it.
Plow first is the only way to really make it easy on you and your machine.
__________________
Original, 109, a pair of 122s, 124 with power lift, 124 with creeper, 126, 147, 1050, 1200, two 1250s, 1450 Dual Stick , another 1450, two 1650s, Gannon Earthcavator, Haban sickle bar and a bunch of other things you either pull, push or hang underneath.
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#47
11-13-2013, 10:44 AM
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I posted a pic of the ripper in my album. Was rushing and did not build it very well honestly. Not enough range or adjustment. Plus bought the shank at tsc. Another on here bought 4 online for what I paid for one shank. Forgot to mention. I had to hang several rear weights on it to get it to sink. 682 has no weights to needed it for traction anyway. but important note I think.
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#48
11-13-2013, 10:46 AM
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When I acquired my dad's tiller this spring just about every nut/bolt was loose on it. The land he used it on is full of field stones and they made it bounce like crazy. One learned to shut off the tiller quickly when a rock became lodged, which happened often. Stuff grew good, but boy did it bounce. On my property, the soil is blackish clay stuff, and I didn't have to worry about it jumping as much. I tightened it up before I used it and had no issues breaking through the sod layer. No pre plowing/ripping here.
__________________
Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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#49
11-13-2013, 10:58 AM
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I tightened mine as well as I tested out the (new to me tiller). Sharpened tines etc... Still very hard on it catching roots. Ripping I found a very large rock 100lb... That the tiller had bounced off of. Would have broken the tiller trying to bust that up. All this in my suburban yard btw. Personal preference but I will always try to break up the ground before I till. (unless I have already run a tiller across it)
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