129 problems

[Cub Cadet 1650]

I just bought a 129 from a fellow member a few weeks ago that had no compression. After i removed the head i found out the connecting rod had snaped. A few days later i removed the motor and removed the oil pan. What i found was what i hoped wouldnt happen. The rod had snapped but in the prossess chipped off a chunk of the cylinder. So i replaced the motor with one that was in my 122. A couple days ago I tried to start it up and it wouldnt do anything. I jumped the solenoid and it would crank but have no spark. Last night i replaced the points and coil and still nothing. So im thinking either the switch and solenoid are bad. Or i need to redo the whole electrical system. What do you guys think.

[sawdustdad]

With new points, make sure you clean the contacts with a fine abrasive. I've had new points not work until I did this. After that, I think I'd run a wire from the battery + terminal to the + side of the coil. Then see if you get spark. If so, then it's the switch (or a wire attached to the switch). If no spark, then I'd suspect a poor ground on the condenser or the condenser itself (since the coil and points are new).

[Green stripe wide frame]

More than once ive seen coroded connections on the ignition switch. just wiggle the connector on the swich and see if it helps.

[IH Cub Cadet]

I'd check the condensed and ground.

[bocephus1991]

Don't wanna sound like a smart @$$ but be sure you hooked the points and condenser to the -Neg side of the coil. I hooked mine up wrong once and like to never figured it out! be sure you have a good ground to the battery and engine is grounded,then start checking connections like others have said.

[Cub Cadet 1650]

So here is where I am now. I did what you all told me to do and I got the old girl to start but the key switch still doesn't work. I replaced the solenoid and the V/R and still nothing. what are you supposed to do to the V/R to get it to work I don't have the instructions anymore and could use the help. I tested the switch and it was getting power when I turned it to the first notch and the next notch but now im not getting anything from the switch. Im tempted to buy a new switch and a new wiring harness and say screw it to this mess. I need a plowing tractor before snow starts flying or ill be in trouble this winter...

[IH Cub Cadet]

Have you downloaded a wiring diagram. I believe the wiring harness on the 1x8/9 series tractors is more reliable than those on the 1x6/7 series tractors, so unless the PO hacked it up, I would just ohm it out to verify it's good. I had wiring issues with my 1650 and removed the black sheathing bundling the wires to make them easier to trace. I also had bad connections within the black plug to the switch, so I wired each wire to the switch. Wiring is pretty simple on these tractors - don't buy a new harness yet.

There might be some v/r instructions in the technical library too.

Good luck,
Bill

[OldAndInTheWay]

If you didn't mess with the wiring when replacing the motor and it ran before the engine ate itself I would double check the wires you messed with during the install. Get one wire wrong can be a real headache. I Know. The electrical diagram and a multimeter really helped me.

[Alvy]

Start circuit on yours goes from kys start terminal to PTO safety start switch (orange wire) to neutral safety switch (orange wire) to start solenoid (orange w black wire). You should have 12 volts at start solenoid small terminal during start position, if not, trace back to see where you are losing 12v positive