repower

[Matt G.]

You may want to consider looking for a set of decent used pistons because that one doesn't look too good, unless it's just the picture. The skirt has a lot of scoring and the area above the top ring looks like it got hot. I would mic the pistons as per the manual and see how worn they are.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by rwire125

ok so its sounds like the rering is the way to go, what is the proper way to deglaze the cyclinder? and then ill just lap the valves and set the proper clearence get some new gaskets and was thinking is it advisable to or ealsy doable to put in new front seal or rear as long as i have the engine out? thanks for your input on this guys,how big can the ridge at the top of the bore be BF i need to consider a ridge reamer? i dont have a ridge reamer or a hone for that matter and in the past ive just sliped the jugs over the rings compresing each one as i go on motorcycles

On the valves: they are adjusted by grinding the end of the stem,
You can download the manual free from Koehler, --do this.
A deglazer is rentable or avail @ auto parts/sears.
they make a cheap one that looks like a bottle brush that has abrasive balls instead of bristles.
I like sears spring loaded with replaceable stones but I have used ones that use emery cloth.
If the ring land is very minor, you can possibly get away without using a ridge reamer, like on the motorcycles you mentioned working on.
But if there is a ledge that the ring will hit on, it has to be removed,
I have chamfered them with a leather stone in a die grinder successfully.
But experience is the key here.

Hey RD, got ya figured out now

Yeah on the 982 front end, front may track wider than the rear though, might want to look for some Super rears too. On the GT front wheels you'll need to use 2 machine shims to take up the difference on the spindle, 1" ID can be bought at TSC.

BTW I've done just that on my project 1706, I'll post pics soon.



Scott

[Matt G.]

Also, keep in mind that if you use a super front axle, you will probably have issues mounting all of your attachments, as the tractor will be sitting much higher.

[rwire125]

Originally Posted by murphycc

Hey RD, got ya figured out now

Yeah on the 982 front end, front may track wider than the rear though, might want to look for some Super rears too. On the GT front wheels you'll need to use 2 machine shims to take up the difference on the spindle, 1" ID can be bought at TSC.

BTW I've done just that on my project 1706, I'll post pics soon.



Scott

yup Scott ya found me and thanks for your reply, i would like to see some pictures of that project

[rwire125]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Also, keep in mind that if you use a super front axle, you will probably have issues mounting all of your attachments, as the tractor will be sitting much higher.

Not really an issue for me as long as i can atleast fit a snow blade

[Matt G.]

That's going to be one attachment that won't fit right anymore...I doubt that the much larger super front axle will clear the subframe. Also, it'll ride lower than it would have with the original front axle, changing the geometry of the blade-- it'll be angled down more and have a tendency to trip easier.

Originally Posted by Matt G.

That's going to be one attachment that won't fit right anymore...I doubt that the much larger super front axle will clear the subframe. Also, it'll ride lower than it would have with the original front axle, changing the geometry of the blade-- it'll be angled down more and have a tendency to trip easier.

Well the same 54" that was on my 1872 will run on my Sub Super, it's gonna.

If I'm not mistaken the 1863-4s used the Super Steer front axles with the 54" deck to provide front clearence, move the spindles forward an inch or so.

Scott

[Matt G.]

The cyclops tractors with the super steer front axle also use a different snowblade subframe, which is probably what he'll need to find.

[Merk]

I would replace the pistons and rings by the looks of the piston in the picture. The upper left top/edge is burnt and the piston skirt has marks on it. If the piston is shows wear the cylinder will have wear too. One of your ealier post make comments about fingernail getting caught on a scratch in one of the jugs. That tells me it is time for bore-oversize piston and rings. Reusing used pistons are a waste of time and good money in my book. I've had motors show up at my place with low power and high oil usage because they thought they would save a few dollars by reusing old pistons or using a die grinder trick.

The majority of the time you will have taper in the cylinder wall if you measure it like Kohler wants you to measure it. A good motor rebuilder will measure it like Kolher recomends. I use a good motor machine shop to bore, hone and remove ridge at the top of the cylinder. They have the correct equipment and experence to do the job the right way.

Yes the way I do it cost more money in the beginning. My way will make more power and last longer.