Help with model 124 removal of clutch shaft rear pin. - Page 2

OldAndInTheWay · #11 08-12-2013, 04:57 PM

Cutting an access panel under the seat to get to the shifter plate and welding it back would have been a lot easier that all this. Could have ground the wields flush and painted and no one would have been the wiser.

cubfixer · #12 08-12-2013, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldAndInTheWay

Cutting an access panel under the seat to get to the shifter plate and welding it back would have been a lot easier that all this. Could have ground the wields flush and painted and no one would have been the wiser.

I agree with that!

By the way, nice mower deck. Are all the spindles free and with no wobble?

OldAndInTheWay · #13 08-12-2013, 05:36 PM

Spindles free and tight.
Previous owner was very meticulous when it came to changing fluids and greasing all the zerks. Came with all info about filters and fluids. Original owners manual and Blue Ribbon Service manual. Lots of extra belts and 5 qts of 30 weight.

Darrell · #14 08-12-2013, 07:02 PM

I am not sure about your 124 , but on my 126 there is a hole on the side of the tunnel cover that you can see the spirol pin , but that is only when you have a creeper gear. It is on the right side as you sit on the tractor.

I took my punch and put it in the ratchet end of a long 3/8 drive extension and drove it out. You may want to use a junky extension because you have to hit it pretty hard to get the pin out and you may round over the socket end.

OldAndInTheWay · #15 08-12-2013, 07:13 PM

Mine doesn't have an access hole but I can see the pin through the attachment lifting cutout.

Darrell · #16 08-12-2013, 07:38 PM

Maybe that is what it was , i can't remember , been awhile.

darkminion_17 · #17 08-12-2013, 07:59 PM

I would have pulled the top of one of those catch basins in the road and have someone park the tractor over it once I was in there.Then did it that way

Yosemite Sam · #18 08-13-2013, 12:54 AM

I have grown tired of hitting my hands with hammers, so some time ago I made some "extensions" for my spiral pin punches. 10" long 3/4" bolt with a hole drilled up through the center about 1 1/2" deep.

It gets you out far enough from the frame that you can really get a good "smack" on it with a big hammer.

It really saves a lot of time and pain.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned that "spiral pin punches" normally make the job go much easier (about $20.00 for a set, at sears).

Also be sure to wedge a block of wood or something between the coupler or shaft and the under-side of the tunnel, to help prevent breaking anything in the creeper.

It has also been my experience that even if you start off with a really good looking end on a spiral pin, after a couple of good licks with a hammer and punch, it will end up looking worse than the other end that was already mushroomed over. I almost always save a headache and grind the "bad" end off flush with the coupler before I ever get the punch and hammer out of the drawer.

I am sure that there are a number of people here who have removed way more pins than I ever will, and they may have different/better ideas about how to do it, but I'm really getting too old and broken-down to be fighting with something like a simple spiral pin and this is (to date) the easiest way I have found to get them out.

Cubcrazy · #19 08-13-2013, 06:37 AM

Good idea Sam!

PaulS · #20 08-13-2013, 07:44 AM

To eliminate being referred to as old big and blue knuckles I have held the punch with vise grips. Now I am referred to as old bent vise grips. Those spirol pins work well but at times I wish I had the engineer that developed them nearby so we could have a real adult conversation.