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#1
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I have been looking to split my 124 to repair my shifter and wonder how do I get access to the rear spiral pin. I have the creeper gear. Been scratching my head and thinking that from underneath is the only way. How would I get the tractor up enough for this old man to get to it, if that is the only way?
Thanks in advance, John |
#2
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go from underneath and use a punch and hammer, and PB blaster spray
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#3
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Thanks. I guess I'll have to devise a way to get the tractor up instead of me trying to go down. I have a really bad shoulder (that will be replaced soon) and it limits me working on the ground like I did in my younger days. Come to think of it, I do have access to a large rough terrain fork lift!
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#4
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I can sympathize on the age related aches and pains being a limiting factor but drive shaft spirol pins have to be punched out and for the most part from underneath on the narrow frames. I usually use a set of car ramps to get it up so I can have room to work. Most times I jack up the front and put the ramps in backward so the slope is forward. You do need to have the front secure as you will be pounding while you are under there so be sure the front is secure and will not come down on you.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
#5
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I just got it lifted up on it's side using a high-lift jack and a chain over a big limb and held tight by my Land Cruiser. It is right on the tipping edge but I have it really secured. Now my next job will be trying to find the right punch. The pin is mushroomed on one side but good on the other. Even still has the paint on that end.
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#6
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Would love some pictures if possible! Heck, you should have strung the tractor like a shot deere over that limb, leaving the rear wheels in contact with the ground {drain fuel and oil first}. Sounds like you got everything under control! Grab up a milk crate and swing away!
Hope the repairs go smoothly, good luck and safety is no accident! ![]()
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#7
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Ask and you shall receive. Looks like it is leaning against tree but it is not.
![]() Covered in case it rains. Now I need to find a 1/4 pin punch. I can see the pin through the slot where the lifter works the up and down for the mower and 3 point hitch. Real shade tree mechanicing going on. |
#8
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Don't let anyone from OCC read this reply!!!
I have had problems removing the rear roll pin from both my 100 and my 124. I drilled a 7/16" hole in the tunnel directly above the roll pin. Then I took a bottle jack and supported the back of the drive shaft from underneath. Used a pin punch from above and the roll pins can right out. I know a lot of people think that mods like this are verbotten, but I saw a need and modified my tractors accordingly. This method keeps you above the tractor, is safe, and is easy. Plus, it can be welded back up in the future. Both my cubs are working cubs. They look OK, but are definitely workers. I don't worry too much about making mods that help me repair or maintain the tractors. Good luck with your cub!
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John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
#9
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Also lifting the Land Cruiser up in the back. That little mower is heavy. Good thing I took off the wheel weights.
Here is the deck that was on it. ![]() |
#10
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I will be blocking the thing up before I work on it. But I think I can get the pin out without being under it. |
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