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  #31  
Old 08-08-2013, 02:21 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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No. It means low voltage. Your still not getting 12V......This is the last time I'm going to say it. Start at the BATTERY and work through the system!! Use the wiring diagram that R Bedell gave the link to in post #9! METHODICAL TESTING WILL FIND THE PROBLEM.

You SHOULD NOT be getting ANY voltage at the "ignition" and "start" terminals at the key switch. UNLESS you have a bad ground. Which, sounds like that may be the problem. Did you clean the point of grounding at the end of the negative battery cable? You have said absolutely NOTHING about cleaning ANYTHING, so why don't you clean your battery cables and connections BEFORE you do anything else!!
  #32  
Old 08-08-2013, 03:10 PM
mirt54 mirt54 is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
No. It means low voltage. Your still not getting 12V......This is the last time I'm going to say it. Start at the BATTERY and work through the system!! Use the wiring diagram that R Bedell gave the link to in post #9! METHODICAL TESTING WILL FIND THE PROBLEM.

You SHOULD NOT be getting ANY voltage at the "ignition" and "start" terminals at the key switch. UNLESS you have a bad ground. Which, sounds like that may be the problem. Did you clean the point of grounding at the end of the negative battery cable? You have said absolutely NOTHING about cleaning ANYTHING, so why don't you clean your battery cables and connections BEFORE you do anything else!!
Hey man, bold print is yelling, and large red bold is beyond screaming. If trying to help me gets you that angry, then DON'T POST and do both of us a favor. I already stated I don't know much about electrical, so if you are not into helping a noob, like I said, don't respond.
  #33  
Old 08-08-2013, 03:15 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Hey man, bold print is yelling, and large red bold is beyond screaming. If trying to help me gets you that angry, then DON'T POST and do both of us a favor. I already stated I don't know much about electrical, so if you are not into helping a noob, like I said, don't respond.
We are ALL trying to help, but we have asked you to start at the battery, work your way from there, and get the wiring diagram. You don't seem to want to do that because you haven't done it yet. You have to help us help you!! So get the diagram, and test as instructed so we can proceed.

If you have questions about the testing procedure, or need a more in depth description, then ask! Or, if your are having trouble with getting the diagram.
  #34  
Old 08-09-2013, 09:44 AM
mirt54 mirt54 is offline
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Well I hadn't posted that I went through the wiring diagram, but I was getting 12 volts at the battery and the solenoid. It bugged me that it wasn't enough to crank the motor, so I cranked it with the charger attached, and it cranked. I took the battery to a local parts store and had it stress tested and it was bad, so I bought a new one. Put it in, choked it, and it fired right up, first time, like always. Thanks to all whom helped, much appreciated!!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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