hydro rear cover gasket?

jeffb · #1 02-12-2010, 08:34 PM

I am having an issue with the 129 and the rear cover gasket leaking. I used some paper gasket material and made my own and the gasket is squashed out and leaks whenever I remove a bolt to add or remove a hitch or gearbox.

Are the factory gaskets that much better to where I won't have that issue? Or what about a different gasket material?

Jeff.

wshytle · #2 02-12-2010, 09:03 PM

jeffb-

I make my own and use a material that's about 1/16" thick. It's the same thickness of the factory gaskets. It allows for a retorqing of the bolts after a good warm up and use. I also use a silicone gasket sealer on the plate side but that's just personal preference. Some use it and some don't. Be sure both surfaces are very clean when installing too.

Good luck...Wayne

Merk · #3 02-12-2010, 10:32 PM

Why do you need to remove the tiller gearbox?
Why not just leave it on?
Here is my Dad's 1450 with the tiller gearbox on his Cub.

Yosemite Sam · #4 02-12-2010, 10:53 PM

The Cub Cadet gaskets, remind me of the old days when we made our own gaskets out of shoebox. I don't think there is anything special about them except they are already made.

I too don't understand why you are putting off and taking things on?

jeffb · #5 02-12-2010, 11:45 PM

Well I have taken things on and off because I have 3 tractors that keep getting tried out with the different stuff...I guess you call it "tinkeritis". :biggrin2.gif:

Everything is clean as can be and I used a little silicone also. I never used a factory gasket so maybe my choice in material isn't up to the task. I think I will order a factory gasket and then find a similar material if I need one for another tractor and see if that route works.

Thanks guys.

ol'George · #6 02-13-2010, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffb

Well I have taken things on and off because I have 3 tractors that keep getting tried out with the different stuff...I guess you call it "tinkeritis". :biggrin2.gif:

Everything is clean as can be and I used a little silicone also. I never used a factory gasket so maybe my choice in material isn't up to the task. I think I will order a factory gasket and then find a similar material if I need one for another tractor and see if that route works.

Thanks guys.

What I have found, that works well, is to make the cover flat again, or even bulged out a tad.
I put the cover over an open vice, maybe 1-1/2" -2" open,outside down, and whack each bolt hole area with a large hammer.

Because over time, the area around the bolt holes gets bulged in, so no matter how tight it is, it will leak in the areas between the bolt holes.
This old trick will work for any covers,
as well as oil pans, rocker covers, transmission pans and the like in auto, trucks, tractors etc. it has worked for me over 50 years.

MBounds · #7 02-13-2010, 08:43 AM

All you Leakers!! Pay attention to Ol' George's advice about making sure the cover plate is flat around those bolt holes. Clean gasket surfaces, a flat back plate & a new Cub/Cub Cadet (they are the same IH part number) gasket and it will not leak!!

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

wshytle · #8 02-13-2010, 11:47 AM

jeffb-

I agree with Mbounds and ol'George about flatness but didn't think about that earlier. I have even heard of guys using a ball pein as a punch to actually pein the holes from the inside so the bolts would really hold the gasket. Be sure to check the overall flatness of the cover with a straight edge too.

If you use the silicone don't use a lot. As I mentioned before I just use it on the plate and apply a real thin layer. I've found the gasket comes off with the plate and usually is still intact.

I have a factory gasket I keep as a template and an $8 roll of gasket material will render 6 gaskets (if I remember correctly). If someone has a lot of cubs this method can help. If you only have one or two then a factory gasket every time would probably be best.