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#32
07-02-2013, 11:38 PM
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thanks for the kind words. maybe the wife is right and im trying to make it into a show pony. i just like making things look good while it is all apart. im for sure into making teh mechanical 100% before looks, a good lookin tractor that dont work doesnt help me much. i guess thats what my wife is getting at
 i have fixed most of the mechanical already, or am in the process of it.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood. 
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#33
07-09-2013, 12:56 AM
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so i have been doing alot of blasting and painting of the engine parts. it seems the more i blast the more i find cracked. non of these i noticed when they were painted. so the engine tins were a pretty quick fix. i tig welded them up and still have a little blending to do on them. the exhaust shroud mount has what seems to be a pretty common problem, the boss is cracked where the sharpie mark is at. the top right hole for the muffler shroud is cracked also as shown with sharpie. i think that hole will be ok as is. the boss hole threads are real loose with a bolt. a self locking heli-coil should fix that. my question is would a muffler crutch work without doing any welding of the crack? is this part actually cast aluminum or is it a pot metal part? ive tig welded cast before but it was not that great of a project ever. some parts just melted and never would fuse right. i dont have any cast rod, just 4043 or 5052. im thinking with a good muffler crutch it should hold without any welded. i wont be out anything if it does not tig though, just some melted aluminum to clean off, as long as i dont blow holes in it. the muffler was loose when i took the engine apart. the dash tin is in the works. i have a few spots around the radiuses that i need to touch up. i got my maple hunter decals in to finish it off.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood.
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#35
07-09-2013, 07:25 AM
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I have always wondered what the shroud was made of myself , i figured it was aluminum , but not sure.
Along with the muffler crutch , maybe you could try some liquid metal. It probably wouldn't hurt . Rough it up with some sandpaper and smooth it out. Maybe V the crack slightly and work some in ??? I brought home a QL that someone did this to , and looking at it from the surface it looks like it works.
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#36
07-09-2013, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator
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#37
07-09-2013, 01:11 PM
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If your going to try welding the muffler shroud, I would use the 4043. The main alloy element is silicon which is the more common alloying element in castings. Also, it is more ductile than the 5052 and have less chance for hot cracking post weld. Clean it real well and preheat the whole part first.
Good luck and great work! Bill
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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