How would you go about repairing this hydro?

[jimbob200521]

I'll let the picture speak for itself but I've ordered the two springs and the spring guides but I can't seem to find the part number of the piece that holds the springs.

[jimbob200521]

Looking further into it, it seems that part #50 in this picture if the part that is trashed in my above pic. Only problem is that part is $258.35 new Has anyone run into this before?

[Yosemite Sam]

That one looks pretty worn out.

Someone (maybe Extreme motor works) makes a replacement "square hole".

The idea is that you cut off your old hole and weld the new one on.

Or you could just fab your own "missing part" and weld it back in, then take that other stuff off and put it back as it's supposed to be. This is what I would do, just because I'm such a cheap-skate.

Absolutely no need to spend a ton of money on such a little thing.

[Sam Mac]

If you go the welding route just make sure you put a wet rag down behind it or you will cook the seal in the pump #5. Just wondering how it operates with that PO mod?

[drglinski]

I would also go the welding route. Make another "box" squared off on the inside, re install the correct springs, and it should be good to go.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

If you go the welding route just make sure you put a wet rag down behind it or you will cook the seal in the pump #5. Just wondering how it operates with that PO mod?

That #50 has the shaft made on it that goes into the swashplate. Removing it can only be done with hydro dis-assembly. IF you weld on it, Sam is correct. You may melt the seal. If you decide to take it apart, I think you can put a shaft in it out of a newer style hydro, and upgrade to the part that pins on. If it works ok with that PO mod, I'd just leave it alone. It won't hurt anything.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

If you go the welding route just make sure you put a wet rag down behind it or you will cook the seal in the pump #5. Just wondering how it operates with that PO mod?

Sam I have welded half dozen or so of them with great success. Just a series of small tack welds about 5 minutes apart and you are golden. That is about 5 inches from the weld area so if you don't go crazy laying a bead you will be fine. I have never in my life seen anything that has been worn that bad and repaired in such a manner. Is that called thinking outside the box. LOL I bet the drive on that thing is a little herky jerky to say the least.

[jimbob200521]

Thanks for the replies. I've looked into the Trunion Repair Kit from xtrememotorworks here:

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-28-001.htm

and that may be the route I go. But as some may know, I haven't gotten the tractor running yet, stupid July 4th delaying my parts I called today and the guy said they'll be in by Wednesday. So I'm curious to see how the hydro acts with this PO mod on it, but I'll be sure to let you guys know what it does either way.

In the mean time, I'm going to see if the guy that's going to fix my blade sub-frame would also weld the Trunion "fix" on for me if need be. I hope I don't need to do it but I have a feeling it'll get done sooner rather than later as I don't like that part of the machine not being the way it's supposed to be.

[Shaner]

welding key stock onto where the square hole is supposed to be works great as well. just did that with my 782, the 782 i had before, 127 and 129