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  #31  
Old 06-30-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.....

I think that if you cut off the brackets on the blades subframe. The ones at the front that connect to the quick attach, then weld them back on the outside of the frame instead of the inside. Then, cut the "pins" out and weld in a solid bar in their place.... So the bar goes across all the way... Then it would fit either tractor.

If that doesn't make sense tell me and I'll explain better. Or if I'm wrong I'll concede.
I have a blade with the WF subframe modified in that manner, so someone out there is making the same mods. However, I've never had time to fit it to any of my tractors, NF or WF, so I cannot state whether it works or not-sorry.

Now, if the threads are stripped out of your head, you can use a helio-coil to hold your spark plug in. I had to do that on an old 107 that I had. Your cub seems to lack compression if the plug is removed or not seated well in the head, so it might seem like you need to replace the piston and rod at this time when in reality, you may not need to do so. Get the head/spark plug fixed first and then see if you need to tear into the engine. If it is turning over now and you don't hear any weird metallic sounds, it could be just resolving the plug issue.....and cleaning that carb, might be the quickest fix for you! You can rebuild that carb for about $12 for a new kit and about 15-30 minutes. Congratulations on your first NF. It appears to have been restored at some point--one clue is that someone painted the treads on the footrest yellow because they couldn't get them off--they should have always been black. Thanks for posting pics....keep us informed on your progress!

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  #32  
Old 06-30-2013, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123 View Post
I have a blade with the WF subframe modified in that manner, so someone out there is making the same mods. However, I've never had time to fit it to any of my tractors, NF or WF, so I cannot state whether it works or not-sorry.

Now, if the threads are stripped out of your head, you can use a helio-coil to hold your spark plug in. I had to do that on an old 107 that I had. Your cub seems to lack compression if the plug is removed or not seated well in the head, so it might seem like you need to replace the piston and rod at this time when in reality, you may not need to do so. Get the head/spark plug fixed first and then see if you need to tear into the engine. If it is turning over now and you don't hear any weird metallic sounds, it could be just resolving the plug issue.....and cleaning that carb, might be the quickest fix for you! You can rebuild that carb for about $12 for a new kit and about 15-30 minutes. Congratulations on your first NF. It appears to have been restored at some point--one clue is that someone painted the treads on the footrest yellow because they couldn't get them off--they should have always been black. Thanks for posting pics....keep us informed on your progress!

Cub Cadet 123
So the piston not seeming to move doesn't necessarily mean the rod or something else needs replaced?

Either way I agree with you, I think getting a good seal on the spark plug is worth a shot. I checked around and found a kit at O'Reilly's for about $35. I told the guy I talked to that I have an Autolite 216 spark plug and a Kohler K301 motor I need the Helio-Coil for. Just to make sure I got the right one, the guy I talked to on the phone said that a kit sized at M14x1.25 is what I'd need. Does that sound about right?
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  #33  
Old 06-30-2013, 03:35 PM
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Modifying a NF subframe to fit a WF tractor would work, but it'd be easier to just get a WF subframe as most of the components where they attach are different.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #34  
Old 06-30-2013, 06:43 PM
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Great news!! I don't know what I was thinking but I removed the spark plug that wouldn't fit correctly and tried a new one I picked up. Lo and behold, it fits snug as a bug! So inspired by this wonderful news, I decided to see if I could get her to fire. I cleaned the carb up a bit, removed the fuel bowl and cleaned the (completely covered and unusable) screen, and tightened up a few electrical connections. Gave her a shot of starter fluid and she cranked over for a few seconds. This is great news to me!! After checking things over again I found the carb isn't getting enough fuel. Let me explain why: the fuel bowl seal is shot. It's leaking fuel like a sieve. So I need to get a new fuel bowl seal and hopefully, with any luck, she'll get enough fuel to run for me!! If spray starter fluid in the carb she'll run but once those vapors are gone, she dies again.

So once again, thank you to everyone. I now know that the motor is good, the spark plug isn't stripped out, and my problem lies in the (gummed up) fuel system. I can't wait to see what the week brings
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  #35  
Old 06-30-2013, 06:48 PM
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Now this is my next problem once the motor gets running

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  #36  
Old 06-30-2013, 08:12 PM
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Glad to hear the engine wasn't a huge problem. WHAT is going on with that trunion lever? Never seen a PO mod like that before!
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #37  
Old 07-01-2013, 12:05 AM
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Don't play games with it. Rebuild that carb, not just a gasket....in the long run, you won't regret it! Besides, the gasket is so much easier to put on there if the carb is off the engine, so while you have the carb off....rebuild it with a rebuild kit! For a few bucks more I'd probably put a new fuel line in, too. I'm glad to hear that you are up and running with a quick diagnosis and a fairly quick fix!!

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  #38  
Old 07-01-2013, 08:32 AM
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Well, I'm ordering parts today. I'm going to order a carb rebuild kit, fuel bowl gasket, retainer clip for my missing choke cable retainer (hopefully I'll be able to make this work), and the compression springs and damper spring guide pins for the trunion pic I posted above. Hopefully, with a days work and these parts, she'll be given new life after sitting for 3+ years.

Which reminds me, could someone post a picture of the carburetor and choke/throttle lines going to the carburetor for reference? I want to know how the choke and throttle cables are run so I know how to set them up when I get my parts because right now they are just kinda sitting there not hooked to anything. Thanks!!
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  #39  
Old 07-02-2013, 08:54 AM
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Does anyone have a picture of the carburetor and choke/throttle lines going to the carburetor for reference? I want to know how the choke and throttle cables are run so I know how to set them up when I get my parts because right now they are just kinda sitting there not hooked to anything.
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  #40  
Old 07-05-2013, 10:57 AM
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Well, yesterday on the 4th I had the morning to tinker so I got the carb off, marked my screw turns, got it all taken apart, and cleaned cleaned cleaned. I have to say, this wasn't nearly as bad as I had thought going into it, actually pretty easy. All in all, everything inside and out is 1000% better. Things were so gummed up in there before, no wonder it wasn't working. Hopefully my parts (carb rebuild kit included) will arrive today and I can get this thing back on and going again! I was running out of cleaner and time so there are just a couple places where I couldn't get the paint off. I also did the fuel bowl while I had things apart, it probably needed it worse than the carb did

Enjoy the pics

Before:



After:









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