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#1
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Hey all. Although I'm new to this cub community, I've been mowing lawns with my 100 for 20 years since my dad brought it home. Now it's officially mine, and time to start tearing it down and restoring/repairing it.
I also picked up another 100 to use as my reference when tearing down and restoring mine. But of course, both have that damn horrendously loud racket when you engage the clutch and it's in gear. I'm told the return spring is likely the culprit and should be replaced. So can anyone point me to a source for this spring? Does anyone have a blown up diagram of the clutch so I know exactly how it should look, and should go back together? I know that sounds ridiculous, but I need to see if I'm missing any other springs or vibration dampeners, or if anything is broken or has been repaired improperly. Any help is greatly appreciated. |
#2
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My 100 was the same way when I got it from my dad. The spring was missing. If you look up underneath on the clutch pedal rod you will see a cast piece that has a rod going forward to the clutch release arm and an arm above it that connects back to the brake. The spring goes from that casting to a hole in the steering box crossmember if I recall.
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Adam 1964 Model 100 w/ K301 12hp and custom hydraulics 1972 Model 149 turned 129 w/ K301 12hp, triple hydraulics, 66 series clone |
#3
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This pic should help. It is taken from the left side of the tractor. This shows the casting with the clutch rod going forward to the release arm and the return spring hooks into the hole at the end of the rod. The other spring is for my custom separate brake pedal. Yours will have a rod connected to the other hole in the casting for the brake.
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Adam 1964 Model 100 w/ K301 12hp and custom hydraulics 1972 Model 149 turned 129 w/ K301 12hp, triple hydraulics, 66 series clone |
#4
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Manuals are all over the internet for your 100. I don't know if they have a PDF version here on this site you can download but I know they do on the cub cadet collectors forum. Register there and down load it.
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#5
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Hint: Sharpen the point of that spring to make it easier to fit into those little bitty holes in the shaft...!
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#6
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#7
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very cool. Thanks guys. That manual is very good. Already printed it.
Thanks for that picture as well. Where do you guys source the replacement spring from? I know there is a plethora of springs at the local hardware stores, and likely one will fit, but is this a high tension spring, or is if fairly weak? I have a bunch of springs from the various drum brake jobs I've done, which might do the trick too. Also, where can I find a replacement for the spring that sleeves the clutch shaft. On my 'ol man's tractor, the spring is cracked and doesn't do much at the moment. (or so it seems) Although it does run just fine, it's got a pretty harsh engagement when I let off the clutch in 1st. Should the clutch disc freely 'rattle' side to side with the clutch/brake pedal depressed? In the attached drawing, I highlighted the springs in green. So the release spring (oddly enough, not labelled in that drawing or any other in the manual) is the lower left spring correct? ...and my "loading spring" (horizontal cross section in green in the drawing, and sleeving the clutch shaft) is cracked and needs to be replaced. While we're at it, I might as well find a replacement spring for the adjustment rod too. In the attached picture (borrowed from the service manual; thanks) the red arrow points to the 'loading spring' of which mine is cracked, and the yellow double-sided arrow shows the movement, play or 'rattle' I'm wondering if is normal when tractor is off or the clutch is depressed. Obviously I can't check to see if there's still movement when it's in gear and running unless I do some tricky unsafe stuff with jacks/jackstands (not gonna happen). |
#8
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The clutch disc will have some play when the clutch pedal is depressed. I would say about 1/4" or so. If it didn't have play the disc would wear very quickly, and the tractor may want to roll slightly. If your loading spring is cracked or broken, it will make a really loud noise. The noise goes away when everything works correctly.
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John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
#9
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Lets put it this way, the racket it makes is unbearably loud. My Harley has an unbaffled exhaust, and my ears hurt more when driving this tractor because of the rattle it makes.
Where can I find replacement springs? |
#10
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Our sponsors at the top of the page can help you.
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John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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