1250 Cub Cadet- No Fire, Even Via Straight Wire

[sawdustdad]

Shouldn't that "jumper" go from the Battery (+) to the Starter/Generator rather than the coil?

[R Bedell]

Shouldn't that "jumper" go from the Battery (+) to the Starter/Generator rather than the coil?

The Quietline Series tractors do NOT have a S/G.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

The Quietline Series tractors do NOT have a S/G.

OK, "starter" then, but not the coil.

[Yosemite Sam]

Rolands illustration is absolutely correct just the way it is.

However, when I have a very troublesome system, I will remove the original wire to the pos side of the coil (just in case there is a dead short in the wire loom or ignition switch) and leave the starter hooked up (the way it is supposed to be).

In actuality you are merely bypassing any/every part of the original wiring that has anything to do with getting electricity to the coil and providing a new path to get the electricity to the coil. This is the same way we used to hot wire cars before locking steering colum... Never mind...

Once it starts you will have to remove the "jumper wire" to the coil (one end or the other) to kill the engine.

If it doesn't start, remove the jumper wire. Leaving it hooked up to the battery and the coil with the engine not running will burn the coil up and weld the points together.

[Yosemite Sam]

The outer casing on the condenser must also be grounded... It can not just be hanging by it's wire.

Running a jumper wire from the battery to the starter, will only cause the starter to engage and turn the engine over, it will not direct electricity to the coil.

[R Bedell]

OK, "starter" then, but not the coil.

That will NOT give you the !2VDC to the ( + ) side of the Ignition Coil, which is needed to fire the engine up.

[cubfixer]

I agre with Yosemite Sam. Disconnect the + original wire at the coil when you jump from the battery to the coil. If there is something wrong with the original wiring harness, it can kill your spark.

Roland, NICE drawing!

[AppalachianMachine]

After two more days of non-success, I did something strange(in my view)- I tried eyeballing the points, after turning the engine over by hand to where the points push rod was stuck out as far as it would go(TDC ? Yes ? No?).

I hooked up my lead from the negative coil post and condenser to the points, hooked up a lead from the battery to the positive coil post, and it fired off. I'm going to get a tach, dwell meter, and my multi-meter and get this taken care of on the points business.

The engine was strong, which matched up to it's good compression reading.

I discovered two problems, however, and I did not want to clog up the forum with another thread, so I'll hope you guys will check back:

(1)I definitely need to find another carburetor- I took it off and it is corroded so badly inside it isn't funny- I've never seen one that bad, and I'm not being cute. If anyone has one that they would sell for a K321, I would appreciate it. Yes, I know a 1250 is supposed to have a K301, but this is definitely a K321, and there are other signs of a swap as well, that I cleaned up. I don't want a new one, and I don't want a rebuilt one, so if anyone has one needing a kit- I would like to discuss buying it.

(2) the transmission is stuck in reverse and wants to move in reverse even with the brake pedal locked down and the speed control in Neutral.


WRT the reverse issue, I seem to remember working on an older Cub about 10 years ago with the same problem. Myself and another fellow hillbilly first checked the linkage, freed it up, and sprayed it down with lubricant. We then removed two fill plugs on the Cub's rear end and filled it with what looked like AW-32, it came from a Case-IH dealer, and we then rolled it back and forth until fluid poured out. We topped it off again, and the Cub was okay.

He passed away some time ago, and I am not sure that his procedure having worked was anything but luck.

On this CC-1250, I freed up the linkage and lubricated the linkage and pivots with some PB Blaster and then a water-resistant gear packing grease. I still have the rear end wanting to stick in reverse, however, so if anyone has a suggested fix- I would appreciate the knowledge.

Thanks for the help all of you. It is appreciated.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

That will NOT give you the !2VDC to the ( + ) side of the Ignition Coil, which is needed to fire the engine up.

Roland's diagram has two wires running to the (+) side of the coil. The One that is labeled "jumper" with the clips, needs to go to the starter. Which is all I said. OF COURSE the other lead continues to be connected to the coil (+). But Roland's diagram is NOT correct because it does not include the starter anywhere. Running two leads to the coil will NOT start the engine.

I don't want to get testy, but you guys need to go back and look at the diagram. There is no starter in the diagram.

[AppalachianMachine]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Roland's diagram has two wires running to the (+) side of the coil. The One that is labeled "jumper" with the clips, needs to go to the starter. Which is all I said. OF COURSE the other lead continues to be connected to the coil (+). But Roland's diagram is NOT correct because it does not include the starter anywhere. Running two leads to the coil will NOT start the engine.

I don't want to get testy, but you guys need to go back and look at the diagram. There is no starter in the diagram.

That's not the way I look at, the diagram proposes either using a jumper wire or a wire from the battery to a DIP switch to the coil. Thus, with the switch you can cut off the voltage to the coil.

If someone doesn't understand you need to use a battery with the starter, they probably don't need to be using the diagram and probably won't use the diagram. They'll go to a shop, bend over and cough, and then shell out $75 an hour.

Take care and thanks.