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#11
04-19-2013, 12:38 PM
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Maybe so Donovan but you still have no idea what kind of torque you are putting on each bolt with an impact gun. Could be 5ft/lbs could be 75ft/lbs. Once you go past the rated ft/lbs of a fastener it's not any better than a non rated bolt.
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149,682,1641,1711 with a 12hp in it 1 8" brinly plow 1 10" brinly plow 451 snow blower,H-48 International snow thrower 42" york rake with fold down grader blade. 
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#12
04-19-2013, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
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#13
04-20-2013, 03:00 PM
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I did use longer bolts,in fact they were supplied with the hitch plate,but they were grade 8, and that may have contributed to stripping the threads. I'll know more next week when I pull it apart. Thanks.
Steve
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#14
04-20-2013, 03:56 PM
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Bolt makers rate bolts at maximum. Grade 8 bolts are heat treated alloy steel. The cast iron is not. Just because a chart says 45 foot-pounds does not mean that you need 45 foot-pounds.
The spec on 3/8-24 (NF) grade 8 bolts used to hold blades on small push mowers is 35 foot-pounds, but the bolt is rated up to a max of 50 foot-pounds. The basic guideline for thread engagement is at least 5 threads. I've been using a torque wrench on engine repair for decades, there no substitute for getting it right the first time. Putting a grade 8 bolt into cast iron is overkill. For cast iron I'd use grade 5 bolts at 30 foot-pounds.
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#15
04-21-2013, 10:26 AM
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A lot of good info here and I think that to be safe I'll go to grade 5 bolts and a lower torque value. The last thing I need right now is to crack the diff. Thanks to all who responded and shared their thoughts. I can't say enough good about the forum and its members.
Dave
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#16
04-28-2013, 10:40 PM
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Cracked differential bolt hole on 105 hydro trans.
I did crack a diff. case bolt hole. Thankfully I noticed hydro fluid was leaking around the bolt, and didn't start the tractor. I broke all my own rules on this job;didn't use a torque wrench,didn't check bolt length vs.hole depth, didn't chase the holes with a tap,or use new bolts,didn't use a new gasket,didn't pay attention,didn't take my time. Was in a big hurry to mount the hitch receiver.
As you can see from the photos I have 3-4 usable threads left, but most of the thread boss broke off in pieces,and that leaves no gasket contact on the face of the housing. My only idea would be to use Liquid Steel,or some other miracle in a tube/can to build up the area around the bolt hole to get good gasket contact. Please---- has any body got any; ideas,experience,advice!? This critter has been in the family since it was new, and I do not want to be the one to trash it ,or even gink it up. What now ?
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#17
04-28-2013, 10:50 PM
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Just my 2 cents but I would drill it a little deeper and tap it. Use a bottoming tap, then I would put a stud in with some JB weld, let it set. Then I would put a new gasket and a little silicone on both sides of the gasket and put the cover back on with a nut on the stud. That area is not a high stress area.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#18
04-28-2013, 10:54 PM
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Cracked bolt hole,more pics
More pics of 105
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#19
04-28-2013, 11:10 PM
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I like that,but i'm thinking I won't mount the new hitch receiver because it uses the bottom 5 bolts,and could put a lot of side load on the bolts/stud. Any way the new hitch receiver is what got me in trouble in the first place--right?
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