149 Driveshaft question. - Page 2

Yosemite Sam · #11 04-23-2013, 12:12 PM

Mr Bob,

I too thought the same thing that Darrell said. Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like a PO turned your drive shaft around and put it in backwards, not that backwards is necessarily a bad thing. But it does look like there is a lot of unnecessary stress on the flex disks. Your set-up should really look more like the the ones pictured in Sawdustdad's post (post #9).

I worry that someday the holes will tare out of your disks and at 3600 RPM it wont be pretty.

Darrell · #12 04-23-2013, 04:22 PM

Mr Bob , You really should look into the problem , i am sure it will be an easy fix. You could make a new driveshaft and get a coupler for the engine side from someone on here. If that is what it takes.

You may even get by using the old flex discs if you can get them to flatten out. I think the flex discs are around $15.00 apiece , so try to reuse them if possible.

If something would come apart and the driveshaft is banging around , it would ruin your hydro fan , may hit the steering box and break it.

Sawdustdad explained it pretty good. Like i said , it should be an easy fix , but worthwhile.

84Buckeye · #13 04-23-2013, 05:14 PM

Thank you very much SawdustDad.. that's exactly what I was looking for. I have every intention of using one of the sponsors here!

I will probably have to get a new driveshaft too.. Apparently the nub on the end is used to center on hydro end.. mine is pretty much shot.. I was thinking about trying to add some material and reshape it, but that might be asking for too much! shame because my driveshaft is straight!

sawdustdad · #14 04-23-2013, 09:37 PM

The drive shaft is simply 5/8 steel rod. You can buy a piece at HD or Lowes, cut it to length, add two of the coupling arms, and pin them both to the shaft at the positions needed. Then Bob's your uncle.

The coupling arms are $24 each and the drive flange is $22 at ccspecialties, probably less on ebay. Even if you buy everything new, you are under $100 for the complete shaft assembly. Oh, the flex discs aren't cheap...so add a couple/three of them or re use what you have.

Somebody else here may have a better idea of how to get a deal somewhere else. Possible you can find one complete on ebay for less.

84Buckeye · #15 04-24-2013, 04:19 PM

Thanks a ton sawdustdad.. Very appreciative!

One last thing.. Since you have a 149 as well can I bother ya with another question? When I took my brakes off the axle, I took one apart to look at the pads, seems there in decent shape still, have over 100 thou of depth on the pads so I'm just going to reassemble them, but I noticed in the service manual that there's a spacer and a spring over the pin that rides through and holds the assembly together. Mine are missing.. Is there a spacer and spring on both sides for a total of 4 for both brakes? or is there just 1 spring for each brake? those little boogers are 10 bucks a piece for just the spring? 40 bucks for springs.. got to be kidding me!

J-Mech · #16 04-24-2013, 07:59 PM

One thing that is really important if you decide to build your own drive shaft, is making sure that the coupler on both ends are in the same position. In other words, when looking at the drive shaft from the end, they should be in the same position. If not, you will have a vibration problem. It is the same on any drive shafts, even ones with U-joint yoke's.

sawdustdad · #17 04-25-2013, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 84Buckeye

Thanks a ton sawdustdad.. Very appreciative!

One last thing.. Since you have a 149 as well can I bother ya with another question? When I took my brakes off the axle, I took one apart to look at the pads, seems there in decent shape still, have over 100 thou of depth on the pads so I'm just going to reassemble them, but I noticed in the service manual that there's a spacer and a spring over the pin that rides through and holds the assembly together. Mine are missing.. Is there a spacer and spring on both sides for a total of 4 for both brakes? or is there just 1 spring for each brake? those little boogers are 10 bucks a piece for just the spring? 40 bucks for springs.. got to be kidding me!

There were three different brake arrangements--not sure why. I guess design changes/improvements over time. I have the middle arrangement on my 108 and 149. So there are no springs. You must have the type on the left? Looks like two springs per wheel (#6 on the left picture). You are discovering that, while parts are available for 40 year old tractors, they ain't cheap.

84Buckeye · #18 04-25-2013, 08:53 PM

Thanks For the tip J-Mech!

I have the brakes on the far right.. No springs either.. I've finally figured out how to look up the parts diagram on Cub, sure does make it a lot easier!
When I was looking in the service manual, it showed the H-H brakes with the spacer and springs, so I just figured mine were missing.

Thanks so much for your help guys!

learning about these old cubs reminds me a little like painting.. 80% or more is preparation.