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#11
05-30-2011, 04:18 PM
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If the holes are not prefectly clean, you stand the risk of stripping out the set screws as well as the scocket.
 Soak with PB, use a .30cal. boar brush on a drillmotor and clean them out. As a matter of fact, I let each hole soak for 3 days, since I was in no super need of it.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES 
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#12
05-30-2011, 09:11 PM
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I'm in the same hell here. Got one of the 3 sets of screws out but the other 2 are giving me fits! Thankfully I had to stop and start up the Big Green Egg just about the time my temper was getting to me...and the fumes from the burning PB Blaster. Waited for it to cool down a bit turned it til one of the holes was verticle and filled it PB. Try again in a day or so, I have plenty of time as this is my new-to-me engine that I will be rebuilding this summer.
I did get some good seat time today, my 4 y/o and I drove thru town pulling a trailer full of brush to the village brush pile, the whole ride we both were grinning ear to ear!
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#14
03-01-2013, 08:04 PM
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Yes it will.You will have to remove the thrust button and the fingers to use a puller, basically you have to bend the fingers back and destroy them in the process.I just took one off and they used locktite on the 3 bottom screws.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#15
03-02-2013, 12:25 AM
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I hate my PTO!
GUYS!! FYI, the set screws are hardened. IF you decide to try to drill them, use a carbide bit (read expensive) and use a lower speed than a 1/4 in. drill runs at. If you can find a small enough diameter cement/concrete drill, with patience this may work but the carbide used to make this type of drill is INFERIOR to a true carbide drill. Using normal drill bits will quickly empty your pocketbooks, frustrate the h**l out of you, and not do much to remove the set screws.
Just my 2 cents. This is from a retired tool maker. Happy Cubbing!! FFGino.
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#16
03-02-2013, 09:56 AM
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So when the guy used the Red Wrench on the set screw, did he "de-harden" them which allowed him to drill out the piece?
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#17
03-04-2013, 04:35 PM
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In orger to "de-harden" the set screws, which are in by the end of the crankshaft, he would have had to heat the ENTIRE
PTO, bearing and the end of the crankshaft, cherry red and then draw down the temperature very slowly...no I don't believe so. Happy Cubbing!! FFGino.
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#18
03-04-2013, 05:10 PM
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Why on earth would someone use thread locker on those particular screws. I presume that is why they doubled up on screws.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart.
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#19
03-10-2013, 12:16 AM
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The other day I was trying to remove a broken bolt on my 1922 Southbend lathe. Went to drill the bolt so I could use a easy out and I got lucky. The drill bit just screwed the bolt right thru the part.
So I decided to buy a set of left hand drill bits to keep with the easy out set. It may just save me some work. Maybe it will back out a broken bolt or stuck set screw.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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