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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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I put a Command in my 1541 and faced the same issues. Cub does make a newer design for the muffler, but it costs over $200. The top heat shield is no longer available. One of the salvage people should have one. The drive shaft from the 1863/4 has different splines on the ends. They are a smaller diameter, so you need different parts for the universal joints. RF Houtz had the drive shaft stuff six months ago. Fair prices and good people to work with. You also need the spacers that go between the engine and the mounting plate. They are the same height as the Magnum spacers. They are larger in diameter. I am not sure if that matters.
Good luck. John |
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#12
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One other option for the drive shaft is to have a spacer made to fit between the engine and the drive shaft. If memory serves me the Mag is 1.9” longer than the CH. So you would need a spacer of that length. You will need to verify this on your tractor. JeffinPA could probably make this in a few minutes . This drawing should give you an idea what I’m talking about.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#13
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Have thought about a spacer for the drive shaft no balance isuess that way. Was going to lengthen the 1862 shaft. There is a garage just down the road from here that does shafts for hot rods. Was unsure about the spacers under engine also. If i use them the deck drive belt will no longer be long enough. As is now the adjuster on the mule drive is at the end of adjustment. Unless the belt is an incorrect one?
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#14
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Hello everyone, it's been a little while. An update on the 1862. Dave the friend at work did some searching on his own and found a guy up in Ky selling a M18 for $450.00. We ended up up swapping the CH18 even for the M18. So in half a day she's running like a top. Good motor. Just need to do a little cleaning up the 1862. The only problem with it now and has been since he bought it, is the pto switch is not staying engaged. It's not staying in the run position. He's got a wire twisted around it in the engage position. I was wondering if that will harm anything running the deck with the pto switch always in that position? Dave's at the point he doesn't want to spend anymore or much more on it. He's now into it for around $850.00 to $900.00. Wish I could afford to buy it form him.
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#15
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It is one of your safety switches under the seat if memory serves me right. I think there are two switches and one is for the pto.
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Chip T. Drexel NC |
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#16
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Quote:
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
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#17
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Thanks cub149 as the seat switches are not hooked up at the moment. Thanks for all the input. Good people on a good site.
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#18
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You may also want to check the nuetral switch on the hydro control lever. I don't remember exactly how that one works but I think it cuts the pto off when put in reverse or it has to be in neutral to start the pto? anyway there is a relay there also. Just check all of the relays/safety switches. I think all of them are N/O (normaly open) circuits.
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Chip T. Drexel NC |
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#19
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Chip is correct. When the pto switch is held in the up postion it bypasses the seat switch, relay contacts and the reverse switch to energize the pto. I would start checking those 3 things to find out which one is causing your problem.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
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#20
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Ok, just went out and hooked up the seat switches. Starts, runs but the pto still kicks off, and now as I let off the brake even with it locked down and sitting on the seat, the engine dies. Am thinking it's the reverse switch. The lever on the switch is every lose and barely touches the hydro lever.
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