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  #11  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:29 AM
cfiles cfiles is offline
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Sam Mac;
I may look into that later. I want to get it back together first. Is the replacement of carb all that is required for the upgrade?

Methos;
Using the 2185 harness was the original idea. I think Cubs & Boxrs did that on his ch repower. But I was wanting to use the 4.5" PTO pulley if I could. The KT17 PTO has 1 wire, & CH18 has 2. But I may go that way if I can't figure it out.
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:43 AM
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Sam Mac;
I may look into that later. I want to get it back together first. Is the replacement of carb all that is required for the upgrade?

Methos;
Using the 2185 harness was the original idea. I think Cubs & Boxrs did that on his ch repower. But I was wanting to use the 4.5" PTO pulley if I could. The KT17 PTO has 1 wire, & CH18 has 2. But I may go that way if I can't figure it out.
Yep the carb is all you need.

The PTO off the KT should work just fine but on a 2185 they switch the ground and on the 682 they switch the hot wire. Roland can hook you up with a wiring diagram to make life easy.

I'll get you a pic shortly of what I'm talking about as far as the drive shaft.
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2013, 11:39 AM
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This is a 2000 series drive shaft that has been cut. The ID of it is 5/8” so most of the older Cub drive shafts will slip inside it. Makes for a nice easy way to adapt the newer engines to the older tractors at least at the engine end of the shaft.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2315.jpg (22.8 KB, 240 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2317.jpg (25.0 KB, 240 views)
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2013, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
This is a 2000 series drive shaft that has been cut. The ID of it is 5/8” so most of the older Cub drive shafts will slip inside it. Makes for a nice easy way to adapt the newer engines to the older tractors at least at the engine end of the shaft.
Sam U not just a pretty face ,U got more than cob webs twixed them ears!
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2013, 12:22 PM
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Earl

The best thing about the 2160, 2165 or 2185 is that they are great organ donors for the older Cubs. If your using a 2160 or 2165 the 1641 or 1440 base plate and muffler is the plug and play way to go. If the donor is a 2185 then you use a 1864 base and muffler. Only reason I like the base plates is because the bolt holes are in the right place so the PTO lines up as it should.
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  #16  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:13 PM
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Well I got allot done today. Got motor plate drilled, motor bolted in. Used the KT17 spacers. Got drive shafts cut, pinned together and bolted on. Also got PTO bolted on. Replaced and hooked up throttle cable and choke cable. Put fire wall and fuel tank on to test fit. Noticed the air breather cover would not come off for replacement of element. Looks like I'll have to cut rear flange of cover off for it to work. I'm gonna look at the wiring after supper. Thought I'd post some pics. I really like looking at all of your pics.

photo 2 (3).jpg photo 4 (2).jpg

photo 5 (2).jpg
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  #17  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:40 PM
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Sam Mac;
You are the man. I missed your posts above. Been in basement all day. Thanks for all your help. I'll be looking for the muffler and shroud in diagram.
You also said it was easier to use the 682 wiring with a "few minor mods". Can you explain in simple terms, how to do this? I'm not real savvy with electrical.
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  #18  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cfiles View Post
Well I got allot done today. Got motor plate drilled, motor bolted in. Used the KT17 spacers. Got drive shafts cut, pinned together and bolted on. Also got PTO bolted on. Replaced and hooked up throttle cable and choke cable. Put fire wall and fuel tank on to test fit. Noticed the air breather cover would not come off for replacement of element. Looks like I'll have to cut rear flange of cover off for it to work. I'm gonna look at the wiring after supper. Thought I'd post some pics. I really like looking at all of your pics.Attachment 32727Attachment 32725Attachment 32726
You've made some nice progress! Thanks for the pics.
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2013, 08:29 AM
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Looking at your pics it looks like the engine may be a little to far to the rear. The fire wall should clear the air cleaner. This is a pic of an 1882 that I put a CH in. If you look at the rear motor mount bolt it is almost even with the bolt that the mule drive hooks over. The CH is 1.9" shorter than the KT. So your drive shaft needs to be longer than what you had with the KT.
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2013, 08:30 AM
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This how I would wire it. The wire that used to go to the points will now be used to power the fuel shutdown solenoid and a new relay for the mags. You will need a 12 volt relay that when it is powered it holds the contacts of the switched circuit open. The switched circuit will ground the Mags when you turn the key off so the wire from the mags will go to the switched side and the other connection will go to ground. You may be able to use the relay from the 2185, I think I have one, if I do I’ll check to see if the contacts are N.O. or N.C..
If you want to use the existing starter solenoid and wiring all you have to do is run the wire on the starter solenoid of the CH to the same terminal that the battery cable connects to on the starter. When you turn the key to start it will send power to the starter and pull in the solenoid at the same time. The other option is to remove the solenoid that is mounted on the tractor and connect the wire that ran from the key to the solenoid on the CH starter.
Alternator is the same.
PTO is the same
I would remove the oil pressure switch and install a gage to keep an eye on oil pressure.
This is a link to the wiring for the 682 + 782
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...der=asc&page=4
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