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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #1  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:57 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
This is on Flea Bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kohler-24-85...item20b97cd6df

If you want more power out of that CH
Looks just like the one I got from my buddy in VA.
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  #2  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:13 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Originally Posted by Methos View Post
Looks just like the one I got from my buddy in VA.
Yep it is just a different seller.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:17 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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This is a list of the parts you will need to do the CH swap. This is what is used on an 1864 and it makes the swap almost a bolt in. Try the sponsors for the parts.

1 603-0025 Plate Assy, Engine Mounting nice to have but you can use the plate you have.
2 736-0185 Flat Wash, .375 x .738 x .063

3 710-3118 Bolt, Patch, 3/8-16 x 1.0 Lg

4 750-3009 SPACER (4) you will need these

5 710-3124 Bolt, Patch, 3/8-16 x 2.25 Lg

6 751-3110 Muffler you will need this

7 711-3006 Stud, 7/16-14 UNC-2A Thd you will need this

8 736-3086 Washer, External Lock, .45 X.75 x .03 Thk

9 703-2176 DUCTING-MUFFLER you will need this

10 736-3024 Washer, Flat, .47 x .750 x .0605 Thk

11 712-3019 Hex Nut, 7/16-14

12 703-2177 Duct, Engine

13 736-0142 Flat Washer, .281 x .50 x .063

14 710-3209 Bolt, Hex, M6-1.0 x 10 MM Lg GR5

15 710-0224 Hex Washer Screw, #10-16 x 0.500

As far as the drive shaft I would cut the shaft from the 2185 and slip it over the existing shaft for your 682 get the length adjusted to whatever it needs to be then drill a ¼” hole through it and put a spirol pin in it, maybe even two just to be safe. That way you don’t have to go out and buy an adapter to bolt the shaft to the back of the engine. The 2000 series drive couplers are pretty bullet proof and they don’t need any maintenance.
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File Type: jpg 1864 muffler.jpg (19.9 KB, 350 views)
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JD317 dump truck
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:29 AM
cfiles cfiles is offline
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Sam Mac;
I may look into that later. I want to get it back together first. Is the replacement of carb all that is required for the upgrade?

Methos;
Using the 2185 harness was the original idea. I think Cubs & Boxrs did that on his ch repower. But I was wanting to use the 4.5" PTO pulley if I could. The KT17 PTO has 1 wire, & CH18 has 2. But I may go that way if I can't figure it out.
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:43 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Originally Posted by cfiles View Post
Sam Mac;
I may look into that later. I want to get it back together first. Is the replacement of carb all that is required for the upgrade?

Methos;
Using the 2185 harness was the original idea. I think Cubs & Boxrs did that on his ch repower. But I was wanting to use the 4.5" PTO pulley if I could. The KT17 PTO has 1 wire, & CH18 has 2. But I may go that way if I can't figure it out.
Yep the carb is all you need.

The PTO off the KT should work just fine but on a 2185 they switch the ground and on the 682 they switch the hot wire. Roland can hook you up with a wiring diagram to make life easy.

I'll get you a pic shortly of what I'm talking about as far as the drive shaft.
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2013, 11:39 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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This is a 2000 series drive shaft that has been cut. The ID of it is 5/8” so most of the older Cub drive shafts will slip inside it. Makes for a nice easy way to adapt the newer engines to the older tractors at least at the engine end of the shaft.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2314.jpg (26.2 KB, 245 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2315.jpg (22.8 KB, 240 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2317.jpg (25.0 KB, 240 views)
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JD317 dump truck
BX2670 with FEL
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2013, 12:11 PM
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esarvey esarvey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
This is a 2000 series drive shaft that has been cut. The ID of it is 5/8” so most of the older Cub drive shafts will slip inside it. Makes for a nice easy way to adapt the newer engines to the older tractors at least at the engine end of the shaft.
Sam U not just a pretty face ,U got more than cob webs twixed them ears!
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2145,1864,1811,1810,1541,1330,1210,1020,1641,147,1 24,73, IH FARMALL CUB. 7254, 1863, IH 982
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2013, 12:22 PM
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Earl

The best thing about the 2160, 2165 or 2185 is that they are great organ donors for the older Cubs. If your using a 2160 or 2165 the 1641 or 1440 base plate and muffler is the plug and play way to go. If the donor is a 2185 then you use a 1864 base and muffler. Only reason I like the base plates is because the bolt holes are in the right place so the PTO lines up as it should.
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1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower
JD317 dump truck
BX2670 with FEL
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:13 PM
cfiles cfiles is offline
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Well I got allot done today. Got motor plate drilled, motor bolted in. Used the KT17 spacers. Got drive shafts cut, pinned together and bolted on. Also got PTO bolted on. Replaced and hooked up throttle cable and choke cable. Put fire wall and fuel tank on to test fit. Noticed the air breather cover would not come off for replacement of element. Looks like I'll have to cut rear flange of cover off for it to work. I'm gonna look at the wiring after supper. Thought I'd post some pics. I really like looking at all of your pics.

photo 2 (3).jpg photo 4 (2).jpg

photo 5 (2).jpg
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