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  #1  
Old 12-25-2012, 03:04 PM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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Default 128 cub cadet drive clutch

Any one knows what is the best drive clutch to put in my tractor? The all fiber one, no metal, any good?
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  #2  
Old 12-25-2012, 04:46 PM
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steve59 steve59 is offline
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http://www.vogelmanufacturing.com/sh...cs-single.html
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Chug a lug a luggin’ 5 miles an hour
On my International Harvester
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  #3  
Old 12-25-2012, 07:09 PM
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That depends entirely on what you are trying to do with it...more details are necessary.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:14 PM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
That depends entirely on what you are trying to do with it...more details are necessary.
Just stock, not a puller
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2013, 01:42 PM
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oldironboss oldironboss is offline
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I'm looking now in putting a aluminum clutch,they are grabbier if that's a word?
I'm looking to pull heavy loads and med. sized stumps out as well. let me know what you decide dude if you have already done so.

cheers bob.
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2013, 05:52 PM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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I put a stock one in it
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  #7  
Old 01-25-2013, 06:36 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
by oldironboss
im looking now in putting a aluminum clutch,they are grabbier if thats a word?
i'm looking to pull heavey loads and med. sized stumps out as well. let me know what you decide dude if you have already done so.
The aluminum clutch disc is either engage or not engage. It's hard to slip a clutch with an aluminum clutch disc.

I been using a blue spring from Cub Cadet Classic (sponsor at the top of the page) http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html and a kevlar clutch disc from Midwest Super Cub: http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsu...te-clutch-disc with good results. I use a split collar behind clutch spring instead of the pin that is in the cub cadet driveshaft. That hole makes a weak spot in the driveshaft. Make sure the driveshaft is in good shape where the throwout bearing rides. I aslo replace the pins and the bushing in the clutch driver.

The blue spring is strong enough to keep the clutch from slipping and is easy to push the clutch pedal in. Another area to beef up is where the release arm bracket connects to your Cub Cadet. That bracket/connection point will flex.

This setup has work great in my IH Cub Cadet 100 with a slightly modified engine.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:40 AM
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In my 1200 im using a stock driveshaft, stock throwout bearing and a new stock disk with a red spring from midwest and stock 3 pin driver. Also have a pillow block bearing right behind the spring. Had my pressure plates turned also. So far no slippage at all. So far ive pulled a 2 bottom (16" cut) in 3rd gear 5" deep. Otherwise for the price on my next one im going to go with a complete clutch from midwest.
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2013, 04:45 AM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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In my 106 and 482, I run the blue springs with the Midwest Kevlar clutch compressed to 4.5 inches. I can pull a plow all day at plow day with no slippage. In another 582 I run the red spring with the kevlar disk, compressed to 4.5 no slippage. All my drive shafts but one are stainless steel from David Kerr.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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