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#1
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Hi all!
My son was mowing with the 1210 last weekend. He was going slow, as the grass was a little thick in some spots. I could hear a noise that did not belong...and opened the hood. Noticed a few sheet metal screws had worked their way out of the shrouding. I attributed the noise to the metal, and resolved to go over her once she had cooled. Son finished mowing and parked the machine in the shed. Next day, we started off by checking oil, and hy-tran levels.. as we ALWAYS do before we start the engine on any equipment. They were fine, and looked normal. Started up the engine to drive up to the garage to work on her....no go. Will not move in forward or reverse. Upon closer inspection, found the drive shaft wobbly, the front coupling discs torn almost through, and the motor completely free from the frame on the left (from the seat) side. I just rebuilt the carb, she doesn't leak or burn oil, and only loses a drop or two of hy-tran when parked for awhile. All in all, a good machine. New drive shaft components are gonna put me out about $200.00, and I have no way to know if the hydro is shot, or just out of adjustment. My first step, once I have time will be to pull the motor, lift the body and really eyeball the whole tractor to tighten or replace anything that needs it. I really don't know what to look for on the hydro except for leaks, and the condition of the fluid which seems fine. It is puzzling,'cause the machine was working fine, without straining right up 'till we parked it for the night. My son parked it, so I have no way to tell if the responseiveness was dropping off. But it seemed ok. The noise I heard was probably the cooling fan rapping against soemthing due to the eccentric motion of the drive shaft. (The fan blades are worn at the tips). Some guidance would be appreciated. There are some 1811s for sale near me...and I can pick one up for the price of a hydro rebuild. I really hate to see a machine parted out, but would certainly entertain a transplant. I could also use help identifiyng the model of hydro in my tractor. Also, when I turn the drive shaft by hand it appears to be still be connected to the motor and hydro, so I believe the motor is spinning the hydro. Any input would be helpful. I can send pics if that helps John |
#2
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It COULD be the release valves, but do to the amount of things that you said are wrong I'm going to say it twisted off a roll pin (spiral pin) in the drive shaft. Of course your going to have to pull the engine and drive shaft to fix the issues, hopefully you won't need a new oil pan too. At this point the best thing you can do is pull it apart and inspect drive shaft, if the bolt holes in the engine are fine and it's just a broken/ missing pin it should be an easy fix.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift. ![]() |
#3
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Well, thanks for a quick reply. That sounds too good to be true.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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