127 dead engine

JBIV127 · #1 06-01-2012, 05:59 PM

My cub 127 is dead after one year of ownership. I was having smoking and overheating problems this spring when tilling the garden. I read on here to look for a mouse nest behind the motor and what do you know there was one. So I dug that out, still the engine smoked out of the breather by the valves but it was better. I read on here to try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas and oil to try and free up the valve. So I did and it was getting better, very little smoke. Then the unthinkable happened. I was finishing up the last of the tilling before planting, must have let it get low on oil, when, CLANK, CLANK, CLANK……… I shut off the engine quick, but she is all done.

I have never fixed anything, but this site is giving me inspiration and hope that I can do it. Or at least tear into the motor and see what broke. Thanks all of you who post your repairs and pics that help out us simpletons.

My first question. I don’t think the tow release lever is doing anything. From what I have read on here I shouldn’t tow this tractor without releasing the valves on the hydro. How do I do this if the tow lever no longer works?

Right now the 127 is in the middle of the garden. Not the best place for a first timer to tear into a motor. Need to get it out of there and into the barn.

All help is appreciated.

Thanks

tractordude · #2 06-01-2012, 07:09 PM

you broke the rod, very common. don't worry about towing it , the valves will leak down anyway, and its not like your pulling it at 40mph, you wont hurt anything.

TheSaturnV · #3 06-01-2012, 09:10 PM

If the hydro relief valves (2 of them on top of the hydro pump) are original, then they are manual and will have a small button on top. The lever is supposed to press a thin metal tap against these buttons to release the valve. The thin metal part is prone to breaking off. I wouldn't try to move it unless the valves are leaking and the pressure lets off after a day or so. Otherwise, you'll have to pull the fender pan and then you can reach inside the frame and manually depress the buttons.

You already know this now, but check your engine oil every time you use your tractors.

JBIV127 · #4 06-01-2012, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

You already know this now, but check your engine oil every time you use your tractors.

HA! Yes I do know this. I was using so much oil when it was smoking that I was checking it and adding to it every hour. I had a problem for sure. It was getting a little better and I was hoping to limp it through the summer, (only use it to till) But I pushed it cuz I only had a little left to do before quiting. I paid the price, well I'm about to pay the price $$$$.

JBIV127 · #5 06-02-2012, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

If the hydro relief valves (2 of them on top of the hydro pump) are original, then they are manual and will have a small button on top. The lever is supposed to press a thin metal tap against these buttons to release the valve. The thin metal part is prone to breaking off. I wouldn't try to move it unless the valves are leaking and the pressure lets off after a day or so. Otherwise, you'll have to pull the fender pan and then you can reach inside the frame and manually depress the buttons.

Thank you for this info.

I pulled the access panel and reached in. The thin metal tap was still there, and doing its job. I thought there would have been more resistance. Glad I could feel in there and know for sure.

I got the tractor washed up and motor pulled today.

Thanks again.