Confessions of a 1450 upgrade. - Page 3

ACecil · #21 03-07-2012, 05:28 PM

Have a good time!

CRE1992 · #22 03-08-2012, 09:22 AM

Looks like your doing some decent work. I recently replaced the Iso mounts in my cub 1000 without removing the engine. It was very easy and I didn't have to disconnect anything.

All I did was loosen up the Iso Mount bolts all of the way around to allow for some movement. Then I slid under the tractor with a small pry bar and put it between the frame, and the engine cradle and gently pryed upward until there was just enough of a gap to slide the old ones out and to put the new iso mounts back in. Took me all of about 5-10 minutes to replace all of them. I thought it was easier than disconnecting the engine to remove it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

As already said the engine cradle goes in first then the motor. Some PO's do some really dumb stuff to them.

I've got to do the ISO mounts on my 1650 and I think I'm going to use the FEL to help me out with that back breaker.

Keep at you'll get it!

Methos this might be a good idea for your 1650 that you have to replace the mounts on, I had to carry a K341 I picked up from a guy about 100 feet over other broke down tractors as I couldn't get my truck near it and I was not happy about it. Though I am only 19 so it may be a little easier for me to get under things to work on them.

Methos · #23 03-08-2012, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRE1992

Looks like your doing some decent work. I recently replaced the Iso mounts in my cub 1000 without removing the engine. It was very easy and I didn't have to disconnect anything.

All I did was loosen up the Iso Mount bolts all of the way around to allow for some movement. Then I slid under the tractor with a small pry bar and put it between the frame, and the engine carriage and gently pryed upward until there was just enough of a gap to slide the old ones out and to put the new iso mounts back in. Took me all of about 5-10 minutes to replace all of them. I thought it was easier than disconnecting the engine to remove it.

Methos this might be a good idea for your 1650 that you have to replace the mounts on, I had to carry a K341 I picked up from a guy about 100 feet over other broke down tractors as I couldn't get my truck near it and I was not happy about it. Though I am only 19 so it may be a little easier for me to get under things to work on them.

I've heard of it being done this way. I've got to replace the front hydraulic couplers while I've got the engine out.

cavmedic · #24 03-08-2012, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRE1992

Looks like your doing some decent work. I recently replaced the Iso mounts in my cub 1000 without removing the engine. It was very easy and I didn't have to disconnect anything.

All I did was loosen up the Iso Mount bolts all of the way around to allow for some movement. Then I slid under the tractor with a small pry bar and put it between the frame, and the engine cradle and gently pryed upward until there was just enough of a gap to slide the old ones out and to put the new iso mounts back in. Took me all of about 5-10 minutes to replace all of them. I thought it was easier than disconnecting the engine to remove it.

Methos this might be a good idea for your 1650 that you have to replace the mounts on, I had to carry a K341 I picked up from a guy about 100 feet over other broke down tractors as I couldn't get my truck near it and I was not happy about it. Though I am only 19 so it may be a little easier for me to get under things to work on them.

Well , pulling the engine was a no brainer in my situation. I am also "t" ing the front output for a set of rear outputs while I have everything apart and accessible.

It only took me an hour and half to pull everything with the exception of the welded linkage on the lift handle.

Im curious as to how many extra bolts I'll have when I'm finished. For every one I took out, i put it in the spot it came from . Nothing like getting things mixed and matched

_DX3_ · #25 03-08-2012, 05:32 PM

Camera, a mechanics best friend.

cavmedic · #26 03-15-2012, 02:52 PM

Been a busy few days both with the Cub and basement renovations. Got the motor back on last night, what a PITA. I got on , but could not for the life of me get the bolt holes to line up with the cradle. After about 4 hours of cursing , one snapped bolt , a drill out and re-tap, figured out to tighten the drive shaft to the rear coupler nice and tight , that pulled everything back enough to get my rear holes engine holes to line up. Tonight I will attempt to get the front bolts in. I may have to pull the front axle just to have some room to get in there and tighten those bolts. We shall see what the cub gods have to say about this..

cavmedic · #27 03-25-2012, 07:40 PM

Finally got it back together ...

Jeff in Pa · #28 03-25-2012, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavmedic

Finally got it back together ...

looks good

I see the rear lift is on too

cavmedic · #29 03-25-2012, 09:35 PM

It is kinda just riding in the holes with the shaft for the older series. I just pit it in to check the lift arm travel. Still need those gold bars, i mean frank bolts.

Jeff in Pa · #30 03-25-2012, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavmedic

It is kinda just riding in the holes with the shaft for the older series. I just pit it in to check the lift arm travel. Still need those gold bars, i mean frank bolts.

Anybody have the dimensions of those frankenstein bolts?

Dealer price is $35.96 EACH