1650 pics

D_Ordway · #1 09-02-2009, 07:32 AM

here are some pics i took take a look. if any sugestions please let me know

RChristensen · #2 09-02-2009, 11:22 AM

My first thought is I've seen better welding. Normally when you see big globs of weld it is on the surface and not good penatration. I would grind off the big globs and see what you have.

How do you pull the engine and work on it while the mower deck is still installed?

D_Ordway · #3 09-02-2009, 11:33 AM

when i took it out it was my first time but i just took out the four iso bolts and it came out. it didnt seem that hard to do it that way.

RChristensen · #4 09-02-2009, 10:41 PM

In one of the pictures it looks like your right engine rail was riding on the front cross member, that would indicate you had a bad ISO rubber or two or that the bolts holding the rail to the engine were loose.

If that is the case you should probably do the rail mod and rebuild the ISO rubbers.

The front flex coupler looks like it has rotated so you should probably replace all of the flex couplers while you have it apart.

While you have the engine out it is a good time to adjust the air gap on the PTO. Also a good time to rebuild the steering sector if it is loose.

From the pictures that looks like a pretty nice cub. You don't see too many with the lower frame shield still on them so somebody must have taken pretty good care of that Cub.

thenrie · #5 10-03-2009, 12:53 AM

My 1650 had that same failure. The former owner allowed the pivot pin to slip out of the rear socket, which allowed the axle to rotate back, ripping the front pivot socket right out of the frame. I was going to have a new socket made out of a piece of 1 1/4" steel rod, 1/2" thick, drilled and honed to size, then welded to a piece of 3/16 plate steel, which I would then graft into the frame cross member.

The pivot pin is actually held in place by a rolled pin which passes through the front socket and through the pivot pin. These failures happened because the rolled pin slipped out and the pivot pin worked its way forward, slipping out of the rear socket. With the repair you are showing, there is no way to retain the pivot pin, so the same thing will happen again if the repair is not redone properly.

This seems like a very good reason for me to buy a mig welder. Always looking for good excuses to buy new toys...er...I mean tools.

D_Ordway · #6 10-03-2009, 06:30 AM

have you made the repair yet. if so do you have any pics

wshytle · #7 10-03-2009, 01:46 PM

The first thing I do when I get a tractor to this point is spray it down with a degreaser then pressure wash everything except electricals. It allows one to see everything that's going on in there. I would then do as previously suggested and do the rail mod as well. I like the quick coupler mod or is this something special?

Just my thoughts....

D_Ordway · #8 10-03-2009, 07:52 PM

i did the cradle mod and new mounts and it is back toghter and running again the only thing that i couldnt afford to do is new coupler. I ran out of funds to do it

thenrie · #9 10-04-2009, 03:00 PM

I haven't yet made the repairs to the crossmember. I opted to buy a 1450 being parted out, so I'll take the frame and other parts from it to get my 1650 back up and running. I imagine I'll fix the original frame eventually. When I do, I'll post a DIY narrative with pics (if it works).