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#191
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Please bere with me on the photo thing. Got a new puter and can't reduce the pixle size, or should I say, I don't know how.
Anyway, I split the frame tunnel from the frame, to get all the rust out and now want to know what the experts do. How am I to paint the two sides that go together and weld it together without burning up the paint in between? Would it be an option to bolt them together, or would that be tacky?
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#192
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Todd,
I assume your going to spot at the hole you just drilled. The Lincoln should do a nice job on this too. So maybe several options: 1. at the factory I assume they welded bare steel together then primed and painted the welded assembly. You could do the same after cleaning the rust. just weld it back together. 2. You could clean and prime every thing within a the size of a quarter to the spot weld. Lay some wet cloths on the metal around the weld and spot it on. Then sand/ grind and prime the weld and go on to finish paint. I dont think you want to finish paint both and the try to weld. Bolting could work? Hope that helps. Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart. |
#193
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Weld bare surfaces together, do your finish work (grinding/sanding), clean the area and prime it right away. This will eliminate the risk of the area rusting. Painting the surfaces before you weld will mess with the welding arc and reduce weld penetration, not to mention the noxious fumes from the fire it'll create.
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Tim Proud to own a 1965 Cub Cadet 122. |
#194
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Todd,
Some nice big stainless pop rivets at each old weld might look good too! This would allow you to finish paint it all. Then joint the two with 3/16 dia sst rivets. These pull up real tight and would give a nice clean look with no rust. I know its not original ![]() Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart. |
#195
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Weld in studs on the cover and grind/fill them smooth on the outside, and use nuts to fasten it to the frame on the inside. No one will be the wiser, and you'll have everything protected with paint. If I do another NF resto, that's how I'll do it.
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#196
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i welded all the spot weld holes up then re drilled them evenly and welded nuts under the frame and just put normal bolts so it looks like the seat plate.
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Cubs: 2xOriginal, 100, 125, 2x127, 147, 128, 2x 66 Sears Suburban, 66 Sears Custom 6, 64 DB 725 |
#197
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Thanks for the ideas, I like your thinking Matt, that sounds like the way to go.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#198
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Been getting some things done on the 100 last few days. Welded studs as Matt suggested on the trans tunnel. (Glad I took it off, lot of rust) I know painting with rattle can is not the best, but I would be more proud of this project if I were to do "everything" myself, I guess self gratitude!
So today I wet sanded all the primer parts and blew them dry with the compressor while the shop heated up. Then started the painting expedition. Used Cub Cadet rattle cans, not cheap, but it is what it is. Three coats later, and even for rattle can, don't look half bad. Not as good as it could, but better than it was. Still need to blast frame, front axle, dash tower and a few other things, but the weather turned for the worst, so outdoor blasting is out for now, and I'm not doing it indoors, been there, done that.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#199
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#200
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102-P Narrow tires no creeper--42inch deck and IH blade. 102-D Wide tires,creeper,headlights--42inch deck and CW36 snow thrower. 1997-2086 Super with 3 point hitch and all the bells and whistles. 1961-PTE-"O", needs lots of work. 2072-Repowered with a ch18, Woods tractor. 149 with my Dad. 44" deck and QA36A. #9-70 with weights and sleeve hitch. #10-149 with a 38inch deck. 2015 Kubota BX 2670. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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