100 Face Lift - Page 19

zippy1 · #**181** 12-17-2011, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer

Switches can be had at CarQuest auto, Tractor Supply, etc... if you change your mind, there's lots of them out there.

John

I looked on the TS web-sight at the switches, there starter switches, all I need is an on and off. Basically that's all the switch is on the 100, just with a key.
But thanks

zippy1 · #**182** 12-22-2011, 06:34 PM

Did some work on the 100 today, against Dr. orders, but you all know how that goes?
Finished welding on the dash, and welded up two holes on the fenders, from the PO, at least I think they don't belong there. Now everything "should" be ready for sand blasting.

Then start slinging some filler and sanding then prime
Hopefully then everything will go together smoothly. What do you all think of this? After everything get's primed, if I was to paint the hard to reach spots and assemble the rear end front axle and dash, then paint the rest, will it still look good? Because I'm afraid that if I try to put it together after painting, I'll have it scratched all to heck, any thoughts?

ACecil · #**183** 12-22-2011, 10:31 PM

Nice job, Todd! Just be careful, and don't hurt yourself more.

Sugarmaker · #**184** 12-23-2011, 12:02 AM

Todd,
I am loving the Welder. Nice unit.
And you did a great job filling in those P.O. holes. I drilled holes in the fenders of the 127 a few years back to hold additional weights. Not a great move on my part and they would need to be filled in the next time it gets restored? Your work doesn't look like it needs much filler!
I like you idea of painting things in the attachment areas then assembly then final costs to blend in. I always scratch stuff up when assembling too. Great idea.
Nice clear pictures.
Merry Christmas!
Regards,
Chris

zippy1 · #**185** 01-02-2012, 06:04 PM

Ok you all, I have troubles again, and need the experts help. Worked on the 100's steering column today. Put in the new bearings and retainers, tightened down the adjusting plug and it feels like it's binding.
So I double checked the shaft to make sure it's strait, and it's as strait as an arrow. Put it back together, same thing. So I checked the old retainer to the new, and the new ones are a little thicker, so then I put in the old ones with the new bearings and tightened the adjusting plug, same thing.
It turns smooth until the plug is tightened down, and only tightened it until the free play was taken out. I can't turn the plug far enough down to get a cotter pin in and having it turn freely.
The tube assy. housing looks to be fine, with the upper column bearing out, the steering shaft isn't in the center of the housing tube either.
Any ideas? I can't post pictures from this computer, so I hope I explained the issue good enough.

johncub7172 · #**186** 01-02-2012, 07:05 PM

Enjoy seeing someone else work on their IH. Looking good. Had I known, I have a good ign.switch I got laying around w/ key just for a 100.

OCC member Merk has a wright up dealing with steering column re-build." Uncle Dick's 70 project" is the name. I think.

I think it would still look good. You can paint all the "non-show" sides first. That would make the show sides a breeze to shoot.

Sugarmaker · #**187** 01-02-2012, 07:10 PM

Todd,
Grasping at straws here. I am not familiar with the steering in the 100. But it may be similar or the same as the 147? From what you describe sounds like the shaft is not at the correct location. Could there be something keeping one of the bearings/ retainers from seating? Are the new bearings the same size as the old ones? Are the retainers the same outside dia? Well you said you tried the old retainers. I would assume the ball bearings are the same size. Shaft end to adjusting cap fit? really grasping now!

Not helping much from PA.
Regards,
Chris

zippy1 · #**188** 01-03-2012, 05:44 PM

I don't know what went on, but I reused the old cups with the new bearings and retainers and it's better. Not as smooth as silk, but I don't now how they should feel when there's all new parts.
But compairing the new to old cups, the new ones are a little thicker (deeper) than the old. That's why I couldn't get the end cap on far enough.
It's together and seems ok, if someone has any other ideas, please let me know.

Donovan M. · #**189** 01-03-2012, 06:34 PM

looking good

Sugarmaker · #**190** 01-03-2012, 07:33 PM

Todd,
Glad you got that one solved!
Regards,
Chris