Dave's 1450 Sub-Project

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Methos

Dave I'm glad you got it figured out!

Same here.

[Darrell]

Dave , Thanks for taking the time to explain your steps and taking really good pics. !!

Just a heads up , when i install the engines back in my QL's , i run a tap in the oil pan threads to make sure the bolts go in easily. You will be glad you did when you install the front bolts.

I also used bolts in the front that are tapered on the end. I pulled them off some old cars along time ago. Not sure if you can get them from Mcmaster Carr ?? Junkyard maybe ?? You can get by with a regular bolt , but the tapered bolts went in alot easier. They must have worked good on an assembly line , so i figured why not try.

And if you can afford it , treat yourself to some angled ratchet wrenches. That is the best tool i found for installing the front bolts. Best tool i bought in awhile as a matter of fact.

I used one flat and one lockwasher on the front bolts ( maybe two flat and one lock ?? ) because the bolt head wouldn't stick out of the frame far enough for the wrench.

If you have the axle out now , you may be thinking no need for this , until you have to pull the engine again. You may have to pull it again to fix something , OR , like me in my older age , forget to put something on.

[Matt G.]

Tapered bolts = less thread engagement. That's not a good thing.

[CC1650Dave]

Yeah Darrell, I drop the front axle when I'm putting those engine bolts in. It's really quick and easy to pull the pin and drop it, and the bolts become 100X more accessible.

[CC1650Dave]

The K321 is on the bench getting taken down, mainly so I can do some testing by purposefully offsetting the cam and crank by one tooth to see if I can still get the points to break with the "S" in the window with the misalignment.

It's an empirical test of something we've been trying to figure out on my 1650 project.

Anyway, a curious thing happened during dis-assembly. Where the engine was really hard to turn by hand before, now I can turn it quite easily. Looking at the cylinder wall, I can see where it's grooved so I'm pretty sure that's why this motor failed. Dunno why it all of a sudden started moving easier, though.

[bocephus1991]

could it be from broken rings? One being titled and causing it to seize up some? Just a guess

[nutzboutoldies]

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

And the 44A Deck:



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I love the " PO modificatins" you refer to. Mine had a 2"X2" square cut out of the dash so the PO could operate the hydraulic lift when the lever broke.