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Old 06-26-2011, 11:13 AM
CC1650Dave's Avatar
CC1650Dave CC1650Dave is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
If you are in there that far I would get some valve grinding compound and grind both valves so you for sure don't have to get in there again. You will also have to re-adjust the valves again after that.

That spot on the piston isn't good, but as long as it doesn't go all the way down to the ring I wouldn't worry too much at the moment. I would put some oil between the piston and bore to make sure any oven cleaner that got down there doesn't cause any problems. I would also recommend cleaning the cooling fins on the cylinder after you get the engine bolted back together; I see a bunch of crap in the fins in the pics of your valve adjustments. If you haven't already, I'd remove the flywheel shroud and clean the fins on that side, and remove any grass/mouse debris that might be in there.

The PTO switch has a safety interlock so you can't turn the tractor on if the PTO is on. If you don't want to lose that functionality you'll need the correct replacement switch, which is only about $30 IIRC.

The F/R control is probably just rusted stuck from sitting. There's a big nut on one side of the dash tower that is on the F/R shaft. Loosen that all the way; it should either come loose by doing that, or come loose easier.

I would also recommend making a brace for the muffler, as it'll crack/break the aluminum muffler box if it hasn't already.

eek - grinding valves...sounds a little scary to me. I used to own a precision turning company, so I'm a little leery of taking a relatively precise angle on a round piece of metal to a grinding wheel. I think I lack the right tools for such a job. Maybe I should take them to someone local to have them done, but if I did, shouldn't the seats be ground to match as well?

I think that spot you're talking about in the piston is its identifying notch. I read that it was manufactured that way, to designate that side toward the flywheel. I certainly didn't do that in my cleaning! In fact, the little spot I hit with the wheel is really not even visible in the pics. I stopped sweating that 30 seconds after I mentioned it...

I have been cleaning out the fins since that picture. Shortly after I get it put back together for a test run, the motor's coming all the way out, so I'll really clean it then.

What's the best way to clean up those fins anyway? Can you get them back to smooth and shiny (vs rusty and ugly?)

Good advice on the controls and muffler brace. I'll fabricate one for it. I don't think that aluminum was cracked, but I'll take a look at it.

Thanks Matt G!

And thanks for the compliment Methos. I try to be thorough because the instructional stuff with pics has been so helpful for me.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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