Deal on a 1000

[Wild Bill]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

replacement carb on order. I have a pile (three actually) of spare carbs but they are all for pre-QL tractors--wrong choke arm. Wondering? Can you swap this from one carb to the other? In other words, convert a 108 carb to work on the 1000. Can this be done?

I looked at the after market carbs that were on ebay a few weeks ago and that were the subject of a couple threads in the kohler engine forum, but they are no longer available. bought a used carb instead.

I'm seriously considering pulling the engine and rebuilding it now.

You're doing a nice job saving the 1000!

A couple of things for you to consider:
On the Kohler #26 and #30 carbs, there is an indentation in the top of the carb body where the throttle shaft comes through. You can install a bronze bushing into that area to take up the 'slop' between the throttle shaft and the carb body. If a throttle shaft is loose in it's bore, it will suck air around the throttle shaft, and you'll never be able to get the engine to run smooth.

Does your carb body have this circular indentation?

Also: You will seriously want to install the proper ducting around the muffler!

The engine is designed to pull air through/from the flywheel and push it over the head and around the cylinder, and past the muffler....exiting through the grill for cooling of the engine. (this also helps the tractor to be 'Quieter" to the operator). With no ducting around the muffler, the heat from the head-cylinder-muffler is essentially 'trapped' within the side covers and hood. You'll end up with 'hot' sheet metal, and discolored paint, along with possibly ruining the decals too.

Did you check the timing with a timing light while the engine was running?

'Fire out of the exhaust' Is it 'popping'? or Is it a fire like 'glow'?
Popping is a timing issue
Glowing is a fuel mixture issue -too rich-

Did you disassemble the carb and soak it in a gallon can of carb cleaner, then install a rebuild kit? Did you set the high and low speed mixture needles as per the manual?

If the exhaust valve was sticking open, the engine would die (no compression from the valve being stuck open) If the exhaust valve was sticking shut, the engine would backfire violently out of the carb (because that's the only way for the exhaust gasses to escape the cylinder) Backfiring out of the carb can also be a sign of a timing issue.

Governor issue: Did you 'sync' the governor shaft/arm to the throttle shaft as per the manual?