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#1
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A little progress on the “newest” 104 to my fleet. See Link: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=6655
As I posted, the transmission was locked up in second gear. So, yesterday, I pulled off the fenders and the seat pan to get to the shifter, which I also pulled. The shifter forks were rusted, as I expected, but they weren’t near as bad as the 122 that I had. A little persuasion with a screw driver freed them up. I will probably spray some PB blaster or other lubricant and then drain the transmission and refill before I button it back up. I reinstalled the shifter temporarily though to keep dirt out of it. As I had the fenders and seat pan off, I decided to lay a fender deck off a 107 that I had – to see how well it fit. It fit pretty good, but there will have to be some modifications if I go that route. I.e., new holes drilled into the frame, the foot rest brackets from the 107 need to be installed on the frame, etc. This 104 has a hydraulic lift and 3 point, so if I keep the 3 point on it and go with the 107 fender pan, I will have to do something to get the 3 point to fit properly. I also noticed there is a lot of grease and gunk on the inside of the right rear wheel and the axle carrier. So the axle oil seal needs to be replaced – from the manual I guess the tractor has to be split to do this as the axle carrier has a frame pad that rests on the inside of the frame. I cleaned the carb, but it will have to be soaked in carb cleaner to get that thing clean. Unfortunately it’s a Walbro! And I still have to fix the steering on this. In the long run, I might just pull the engine off and put it on my 123 roller (and maybe put the 107 fender deck on it), instead of tackling the steering and the axle leak. But who knows, I like the 104s so I might just fix this one up. |
#2
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I'd say fix this one up and get a K301 for your 123. I don't think the tractor has to be split to get the axle housing off?
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#3
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The more Cubs the better! That 104 is prity neat....and would think a moment about parting it out. I would love the hydro pump....money has been tight, just got 2 cord wood saturday. Keep us posted, good Cubs Terry!
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#4
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If anyone has a close up of the mounting bolts for a 1x6/1x7 fender deck, please post them. And the 3 point hitch set up, as well.
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#5
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If the axle tubes are the same as a 1x8 series, all you have to do to change the axle seal is remove the rear cover, pull the "C" clip on the axle that needs to be replaced, pull the axle, remove the seal, replace the seal and isntall in the reverse order. If you are going to do one, you are better off doing both seal.
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Mike Murphy Mike & Jen's Old Engines Original OCC Member #23 Cub Cadets: 102, 128(X2), Model 1 tiller, Model 1A Sweeper, QA-42A Snow blower, 38" CI end mower deck, QA 42" mower deck, Brinly cultivator, Brinly 10" plow, sleeve hitch adaptor |
#6
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As someone once mentioned, "Time is of the Essence!" Time is a commodity that I wish I had more of, just ain't enough days in the weekend nor enough hours in a day.....
I had a few minutes last night to look over the steering on this 104. I was able to get this Cub because the PO busted the steering. It looks like he tried to remove the steering wheel - the steering wheel nut is missing. I can see that the steering shaft, when the steering wheel is turned, will ride up the column about two inches. I didn't have much PB Blaster left, but what I had I shot the steering wheel with it. I crawl underneath the tractor and noticed the cam plate is very loose. I also noticed the bearings in the left front wheel are almost non-existent - I'm not sure what's keep the wheel on. I can steer the tractor to the right, but when I turn it back to the left, the front wheels won't turn because the steering shaft will start to ride up the column and away from the cam follower on the cam plate. I will go and get more PB Blaster, or maybe try Kroil, and spray the steering wheel good and then maybe try Matt G's method below. I'm thinking that this wheel will be very stubborn to remove. This picture belongs to Matt G. |
#7
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There was no saving the steering shaft, the po had butchered the threads and even cut the top part of the shaft. Luckily I got another steering column and gear box, so I cut the steering wheel off. Next I got the thing running after cleaning the carb really good. The hydraulic lift works also. After messing with the clutch a while, it goes into gear and moves. Next will be to replace the steering column, change out the left front wheel bearings and replacing the right axle seal.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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