682 and Kwik-Way loader project

[Matt G.]

Here's the 682 I've been working on. I sold the 124 out from under my loader, so it's become time to put something else together for it. I've finally collected the right stuff to go through with this: An IH-built 682 (Oct. '79) and an engine smaller than the KT-17 that was in it. I wanted a K301AQS but wound up with a K321AQS instead. Oh well... The engine came from a 1250 and the iso-mounts were shot, so the pan has some wear, but I think it's usable if there's no cracks. I think every gasket and seal on that engine leaked, so I spent awhile yesterday degreasing the engine.



I've got a gasket set for it, and I'll be removing the balance gears (by disassembling the engine, if necessary) if I find any when I drop the pan to replace the leaky gasket. I'll also toss in a new set of points and condenser and new spark plug (and I might spring for a Pointsaver if I have any $$$ left over after I put this thing together). It also needs a head gasket, so perhaps I'll do a how-to for that while I'm at it.

Here's the tractor:



That KT-17 must have been throwing oil for quite awhile...everything in the engine compartment was greasy. This tractor is in pretty good shape overall though; the rag joints are in great shape, and the rear coupler is still tight on the input shaft. I took the bearings out of the front wheels and found them to be in great shape, so I packed them with grease and reinstalled them. I also tightened the slop in the front axle by tightening the nut on the pivot bolt about half a turn, and greased the front spindles. I wanted to take the steering column out to go through the box, but I haven't been able to remove the steering wheel yet. So I spent most of the day cleaning the greasy mess off of the parts I removed.



The garage is very red at the moment...

[ACecil]

Thanks for the pics, Matt! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[TEET]

Looking great so far Matt!

Your 682 engine swap is looking very familiar :biggrin2.gif:

Jeff (teet)

[Matt G.]

Hey Jeff, does the starter wire reach, or do I need to add a longer one?

[TEET]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Hey Jeff, does the starter wire reach, or do I need to add a longer one?

The wire harness needs to be re-routed to the rt side of the tractor near the steering column(I zip tie it to the column to clear the drive shaft). The starter wire was probably 6" too short, so yes you will need to add some length to it for it to reach. Also the headlight wires are now moved to the right side which need lengthening as well. Surprisingly the pto wire fit fine, as well as the regulator wiring. I tried umpteen ways to make some slack in the harness to get it closer to the rt side of the tractor.

Keep us updated on your progress,

Jeff (teet)

[Matt G.]

Finally got the steering wheel off. Had to make a puller out of a chunk of hardwood to use with a harmonic balancer puller. I wish I would have done that first. It came off very easily with this. The PO painted the end of the steering shaft red, for reasons I'll never understand, and then put the steering wheel on. That kept my penetrant from getting in there.



I'm no longer an advocate of the 'hammer, bolt, and nut' method for removing the steering wheel, as my attempt with it destroyed the lower bearing race.



The lower bearing race is on the left, upper on the right. The upper bearing race is in perfect condition. The galling from the my first steering wheel removal attempt is quite visible on the lower race. If I had just made the puller in the first place, I could have gotten away with new bearings and a cam follower...but now I need a bearing race, too.

[Amigatec]

I rebuilt the steering column on a Model A Ford a few years ago, they are very similar to the Ross box used on the CC. I used a puller to remove the wheel and never hit it with a hammer and had the type of wear your box had. I had to replace the worm it was worn so bad.

I have seen that type of wear on wheel bearings and other bearings before and can say with 100% certainty that that wear was NOT caused by hammer blows. You would have bent the steering column before you would damaged the bearings.

I just don't want to see bad information put out.

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by Amigatec

I rebuilt the steering column on a Model A Ford a few years ago, they are very similar to the Ross box used on the CC. I used a puller to remove the wheel and never hit it with a hammer and had the type of wear your box had. I had to replace the worm it was worn so bad.

I have seen that type of wear on wheel bearings and other bearings before and can say with 100% certainty that that wear was NOT caused by hammer blows. You would have bent the steering column before you would damaged the bearings.

I just don't want to see bad information put out.

Fine. I'm done pounding on my steering boxes though...whether or not that damaged the bearings, I'm not taking a chance, especially when the races can't be found. I'm also done arguing...you will not convince me that's normal wear. I have better things to do then continue to beat this dead horse.

[Matt G.]

The cam plate was badly warped (~1/8" runout from the pivot bolt to the end where the drag link attaches), but a few seconds with the hydraulic press and that's fixed.


I pulled the fenders off, washed those, and then pressure washed the chassis...I think there was more oil protecting the chassis than there would have been in the engine. What a mess...

It's pretty clean now...



I can start reassembly soon if I can get a new follower and bearing race for my steering box.

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by Amigatec

I have seen that type of wear on wheel bearings and other bearings before and can say with 100% certainty that that wear was NOT caused by hammer blows...I just don't want to see bad information put out.

Alright, forgive me, I said I was done with this, but since this came up on another forum, too, I decided to do a little experiment to see if I was wrong.

I disassembled a junk steering column (had a broken casting...don't worry, I didn't wreck anything that'd have been usable) and found one bearing race with cracks on the back and a nice-looking bearing surface (with light corrosion, no brinelling) that was unusable, nonetheless.



With the race in an adjuster plug, I put on a bearing and placed the end of a steering shaft in it. I then attached the nut and bolt to the end of the shaft and pounded on it for awhile, as if I was removing a steering wheel. With safety in mind, I did this on an anvil instead of risking reassembling a cracked steering box...I didn't want that to explode while I was doing this. Since I had this whole contraption on top of an anvil, I couldn't even swing the hammer with both hands, and I had to grab it near the head to avoid missing the bolt and smashing my other hand. I wasn't able to hit it very forcefully in this manner. After a couple minutes (less than what the column on my 682 went through as I tried unsuccessfully to remove the wheel) I wound up with this:



This looks just like the lower race I pulled out of my 682's column. In conclusion, I think this proves it is possible to damage the bearings by pounding on the shaft to remove the steering wheel.