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#1
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Lately I have replaced the points and set the timing, replaced the tie rod ends and adjusted the steering box, retubed/repainted the front wheels and added the ags in back, covered the seat, bought a rear panel and PO gave me the clutch cover, added a spring assist, made a grille. Just ordered a T/O bearing, clutch disc, teaser spring and a bushing for the clutch center...my first gear drive, what else might I need for the clutch other than surfacing?
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#2
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Sounds like you got it covered. That is looking great. The #1 behind it is ready to haul some wood!
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#3
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Looks like you've been busy Brian. Tractor looks great. You recover that seat at work?
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#4
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the tractors looking good. since your going to have it that far apart i recommend getting a new drive shaft from Jeff, there will most likely be wear on the old one.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#5
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Seat was low budget, David-$10 worth of vinyl off ePay and some old mattress foam, a little wrinkly in back but works Only uphosltery
guy around was 6 months behind. Alvy I blew the cart apart for sandblasting tomorrow and some new tread. The bottom is thin and has some holes. I hope it to have it ready by wood time. I hadn't thought about wear on the shaft, Tim. It amazes me how well balanced the cart is and how well it rolls |
#6
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104 and #1 look good together Brian
![]() By the sound of what you've repaired, you'll be set for years to come...
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#7
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Hey Brian, I was just looking through your tiller rebuild thread looking for the stuff you put on the underside of the sheet metal housing;
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...6&postcount=38 Never used that stuff, found this as part of a review on Amazon; - use it on a surface that isn't smooth, clean it with Marine Clean, prepare the surface with Metal Prep, let one coat of POR-15 dry to the touch, put on a second coat, let it dry to the touch. If the POR-15 is going to be exposed to direct sunlight, then put on the POR-15 Tie-Coat primer, let it dry completely, then paint as normal. Sounds like you need a bunch of other stuff, “marine clean”, “metal prep”, ‘Tie Coat primer’ to make this stuff work right. You think this would be a good choice for a rusty battery box? |
#8
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I clean stuff with hot water and TSP, never used any of the other stuff-it's marketing, at one time only the POR-15 paint was available. However, the POR-15 will get chalky looking in the sun after a while, but it still protects. Good stuff.
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#9
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64 fleetside I had the same issues, leaving the key on burning points I resolved this by installing a red led light from auto parts store in dash on my 108 and 147 it's hard to miss seeing that light when getting off, works for me!!! CURT
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#10
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Looking good there Brian. Looks like a POTW candidate!
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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