The 104
 

Lately I have replaced the points and set the timing, replaced the tie rod ends and adjusted the steering box, retubed/repainted the front wheels and added the ags in back, covered the seat, bought a rear panel and PO gave me the clutch cover, added a spring assist, made a grille. Just ordered a T/O bearing, clutch disc, teaser spring and a bushing for the clutch center...my first gear drive, what else might I need for the clutch other than surfacing?

Sounds like you got it covered. That is looking great. The #1 behind it is ready to haul some wood!

Looks like you've been busy Brian. Tractor looks great. You recover that seat at work?

the tractors looking good. since your going to have it that far apart i recommend getting a new drive shaft from Jeff, there will most likely be wear on the old one.

Seat was low budget, David-$10 worth of vinyl off ePay and some old mattress foam, a little wrinkly in back but works Only uphosltery
guy around was 6 months behind.
Alvy I blew the cart apart for sandblasting tomorrow and some new tread. The bottom is thin and has some holes. I hope it to have it ready by wood time.
I hadn't thought about wear on the shaft, Tim.
It amazes me how well balanced the cart is and how well it rolls

104 and #1 look good together Brian:beerchug:
By the sound of what you've repaired, you'll be set for years to come...

Thanks, Todd--I also got a deck with the 104 but haven't tried it out, the center pulley was loose and has been run that way so pulley and shaft are both wallered out. Has the car type wheel bearings.
This 10hp fires right up now, points had burnt from leaving key on...see that alla time...

Hey Brian, I was just looking through your tiller rebuild thread looking for the stuff you put on the underside of the sheet metal housing;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...6&postcount=38

Never used that stuff, found this as part of a review on Amazon;

- use it on a surface that isn't smooth, clean it with Marine Clean, prepare the surface with Metal Prep, let one coat of POR-15 dry to the touch, put on a second coat, let it dry to the touch. If the POR-15 is going to be exposed to direct sunlight, then put on the POR-15 Tie-Coat primer, let it dry completely, then paint as normal.

Sounds like you need a bunch of other stuff, “marine clean”, “metal prep”, ‘Tie Coat primer’ to make this stuff work right. You think this would be a good choice for a rusty battery box?

I clean stuff with hot water and TSP, never used any of the other stuff-it's marketing, at one time only the POR-15 paint was available. However, the POR-15 will get chalky looking in the sun after a while, but it still protects. Good stuff.

burning points
 

64 fleetside I had the same issues, leaving the key on burning points I resolved this by installing a red led light from auto parts store in dash on my 108 and 147 it's hard to miss seeing that light when getting off, works for me!!! CURT