105 restoration

[steved]

I spent most of the weekend in the paint shop and painted about 90% of the parts. A few parts need some touching up but I'm happy but tired! I've been trying to watch videos and read the post here but I still have some questions. On the rear end, I figured I would replace the cork seal between the pump and rear end. I'm picking up that this is a common place to leak and since I have it this far apart it would be smart to do it. How far should I take the engine down? Pull the head, inspect and replace the gasket? I didn't realize it at the time, but the bolts I removed that held the heat shield down are also some of the head bolts? Since they need to be re-torqued should I not pull it and replace bolts and gasket? Also, should I remove some of the sheet metal to repaint or spray as is? Thanks for your patience and help!

[olds45512]

Go ahead and pull the head, clean the carbon off the top of the piston and head and also check the head for straightness. I'd pull all the tins off the engine and clean good around the fins on the block, once all the pieces are prepped and ready to paint you can either paint them individually or bolt it all together and paint.

[J-Mech]

Don't paint the cylinder head though.

I would also suggest not painting the hydro. It's aluminum and really doesn't need paint. Also, cools better if it's not.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Don't paint the cylinder head though.

I would also suggest not painting the hydro. It's aluminum and really doesn't need paint. Also, cools better if it's not.

As Jon said don't paint the head, I always paint my engine together so any paint getting on the head is minimal.

[TheSaturnV]

Ditto on what the guys are saying.

As J-M says, don't paint the hydro pump fins, although I did hit them lightly with clear lacquer spray.

On the Kohler, I left the head in aluminum for cooling, and used black BBQ paint for the fins on the block. I painted the cooling shroud separately. Since aluminum doesn't hold paint very well, I left the cam cover bare and hit it with clear lacquer. I also decided to do the oil breather cover the same way, since it takes so much heat, fuel and oil abuse.

[ford4150]

I was also cautioned not to paint the differential vent. Don't know if it came from this board or not.

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

Ditto on what the guys are saying.

As J-M says, don't paint the hydro pump fins, although I did hit them lightly with clear lacquer spray.

On the Kohler, I left the head in aluminum for cooling, and used black BBQ paint for the fins on the block. I painted the cooling shroud separately. Since aluminum doesn't hold paint very well, I left the cam cover bare and hit it with clear lacquer. I also decided to do the oil breather cover the same way, since it takes so much heat, fuel and oil abuse.

You can't see it when it's assembled anyway....(hydro pump fins)

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Don't paint the cylinder head though.

I would also suggest not painting the hydro. It's aluminum and really doesn't need paint. Also, cools better if it's not.

Good advice IMO

[steved]

I thought I would pass on some info on putting the decal on the dash tin. I first cleaned the tin with a scotchbrite pad and wiped it down with denatured alcohol. I applied the decal the best I could and it looked terrible. Every spec of foreign matter left on the tin showed up. I ordered another dash decal( great people at Maple Hunter), removed the old decal, used 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sanded the entire tin over and over, wiped with DNA again. I used scissors and trimmed the paper to the decal and used a razor blade to cut out the openings. The next part took two people to do. I pressed and formed the decal to the tin, lined everything up(throttle opening was off about an 1/8"), 2nd person taped the upper right hand corner(notice its flat for about 6 inches), sort of made a hinge. Unhinged the tin and decal, peeled about 2 inches back on the decal, lined up the top edge, pressed the decal down, one person pressed the decal and the other continued to pull the backing from under the decal. Used a razor blade to trim the decal where it overhung the edges and holes. Trimmed the throttle opening to match the tin so the amount of tin showing was the same. For an old tin I think it came out great. Maybe this will help some of you guys.

[Rmowl]

That looks amazing! Gaining a lot of info for resto of my 102, if it doesn't get farmed out. Nice work!