1650 steering wheel removal

[1650noob]

Hmmm, now that I got the fenders off another goal is giving me fits. Is there a special puller for the steering wheel? That thing won't come off! Suggestions?



Thanks,
Nate

[Sam Mac]

This guy makes a nice tool for removing stuck wheels.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8FjiG-Mzz4

[finsruskw]

Got a big brass drift??
Soak the shaft/nut w/WD-40 or whatever...for a while maybe?
Put the seat back on and sit on it w/your knees crammed up under the wheel
If Ya are a short wheelbase guy, Ya may need to shim up under yer feet w/2x4's or sumthin'
back the nut off till its flush w/the top of the shaft
set the drift on the nut/shaft
put as much pressure up under the wheel w/your knees as possible
and smack the drift w/a BFH

Simple , huh??

Has Worked every time for me

Unless Ya wanna spend big bucks for a puller ypu will probably only use once!!

Dave S.

[PaulS]

Had the same problem with a 102 steering wheel. Soaked that thing for over a week but no luck. Another member, Matt G. shows a wood support that fits under the wheel and a wheel puller fits to it and I made one in about 10 minutes. Wheel popped right off. Made the price of the puller worth the cost.

[MSIXTEEN]

To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by MSIXTEEN

To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck

Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you!

[Cubcrazy]

Originally Posted by MSIXTEEN

To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck

[Gentleman Farmer]

Originally Posted by MSIXTEEN

To remove the steering wheel, remove the nut and spray pb blaster on the bolt and let it soak a few days. Then get a 5/8 fine thread nut and 4-6 inch fine thread 5/8 bolt. Screw the nut down half way on the the steering bolt then thread the 5/8 bolt till it bottoms out. Use a wrench to tighten the bolt / nut /steering. Using your knees under the wheel for lift, use a large hammer and hit the end of the bolt to jar the wheel free. You may have to do this a few times.Ifyou have no luck with that procedure use a 2x4 and slide it under the wheel on one side and the dash as the fulcrum hit the bolt again working your way around the wheel to lift. I had no problem with the 2x4 method. Totalcost $3.74 for grade 8 parts. This worked for me after I ruined my steering wheel with jaw puller. Avoid the jaw puller at all costs, that puller on the video hasn't been made in a while and I couldn't find one anywhere.good luck

MSIXTEEN -- This worked perfectly. Just 5 raps with a regular claw hammer and the wheel popped up. Thanks!

[1650noob]

I've tried several methods and so far no luck.

I even managed to damage my wheel.

[sawdustdad]

I am not expert, far from it. Was able to get the steering wheel off my 108, a 149 and a 1650. Was NOT able to get the wheel off my 72. Damaged the shaft threads in the process. Gave up, pulled the cover off the gearbox without removing the entire assembly, reground the follower stud, regreased it, replaced the seal and reassembled and adjusted it. It worked fine. Had to epoxy the acorn nut on to the steering column as the threads were too damaged to screw the nut on. Should last a few years.

The only reason you NEED to remove the steering wheel if is the bearings are shot--and of the ones I've rebuilt, the bearings were still perfect and replacement was unnecessary. So unless there is up/down play in the steering, I'd venture that removal is not required to get the gear working properly.